Giant Homer
The Giant Homer is a large American utility breed bred up from homing pigeons for size and substance, known for its calm, sturdy nature.
- Size
- Large
- Lifespan
- 8–12 years
- Origin
- United States
- Temperament
- Calm
- Standard colors
- Black, White and Blue and 16 more
Characteristics
Giant Homer colors and patterns
What each club's breed standard says about every Giant Homer color and pattern. Point at a ruling to see the club's own wording.
Breed standards describe the Giant Homer in Black, White, Blue, Lavender, Silver, Brown, Dun, Khaki, Bronze, Red, Ash red, Mealy, Yellow, Cream, Indigo, Dominant opal, Faded, Reduced and Ochre. Standard patterns: Solid, Grizzle, Mottled, Splash, Chequer, T-check, Bar, Barless, Spread, Pied and Almond.
| Color or pattern | NPA | BDRG |
|---|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“SOLIDS; BLUE BAR; BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; ALMOND; PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Schwarz; Schwarz-gescheckt; Schwarz-getigert; Kite; Blau mit Binden; Blau ohne Binden; Blau-gehämmert; Blau-dunkelgehämmert; Dunkel; Andalusierfarbig”) |
| White | Standard (“WHITE; CLASSIC GRIZZLE; TIGER GRIZZLE; ALMOND; PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Weiß; Blau-gescheckt mit Binden; Blau-gescheckt ohne Binden; Blau-gehämmert-gescheckt; Blau-dunkelgehämmert-gescheckt; Dunkel-gescheckt”) |
| Blue | Standard (“BLUE BAR; BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; CLASSIC GRIZZLE; TIGER GRIZZLE; PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Blau mit Binden; Blau ohne Binden; Blau-gehämmert; Blau-dunkelgehämmert; Dunkel; Hellandalusierfarbig; Andalusierfarbig; Blau-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Lavender | No ruling | Standard (“Aschfahl; Aschfahl-gescheckt”) |
| Silver | Standard (“DILUTE”) | Standard (“Blaufahl mit Binden; Blaufahl ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gehämmert; Blaufahl-dunkelgehämmert; Gelercht; Blaufahl-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Brown | Standard (“BROWN BARS & CHECKS; SOLIDS”) | Standard (“Braunfahl mit Binden; Braunfahl-gehämmert; Braunfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Braun; Braunfahl-gescheckt mit Binden; Braunfahl-gehämmert-gescheckt”) |
| Dun | Standard (“DILUTE”) | Standard (“Dun; Dun-gescheckt; Golddun; Blaufahl mit Binden; Blaufahl ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gehämmert; Blaufahl-dunkelgehämmert; Indigofahl mit Binden”) |
| Khaki | Standard (“DILUTE”) | No ruling |
| Bronze | No ruling | Standard (“Kite; Golddun”) |
| Red | Standard (“RECESSIVE RED OR YELLOW”) | Standard (“Rot; Rot-gescheckt; Rot-getigert; Agate Rot; DeRoy”) |
| Ash red | Standard (“ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; SOLIDS”) | Standard (“Dominant Rot; Rotfahl mit Binden; Rotfahl-gehämmert; Rotfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Dominant Rot-gescheckt; Rotfahl-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Mealy | No ruling | Standard (“Mehllicht mit Binden; Mehllicht ohne Binden; Mehllicht-gescheckt mit Binden; Mehllicht-gescheckt ohne Binden”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“ALMOND; DILUTE; RECESSIVE RED OR YELLOW”) | Standard (“Gelb; Dominant Gelb; Gelb-gescheckt; Dominant Gelb-gescheckt; Gelb-getigert; Agate Gelb; Dominant Gelb-getigert; Vielfarbig; Gelbfahl mit Binden”) |
| Cream | Standard (“DILUTE”) | Standard (“Gelbfahl mit Binden; Gelbfahl-gehämmert; Gelbfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Aschgelb (creme); Gelbfahl-gescheckt mit Binden; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-gescheckt”) |
| Indigo | Standard (“INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Indigo mit Binden; Indigo ohne Binden; Indigo-gehämmert; Indigo-dunkelgehämmert; Indigo-dunkel; Indigofahl mit Binden; Indigofahl-gehämmert”) |
| Dominant opal | Standard (“DOMINANT OPAL”) | No ruling |
| Faded | Standard (“FADED”) | No ruling |
| Reduced | Standard (“REDUCED”) | No ruling |
| Ochre | No ruling | Standard (“Gelercht; Gelercht-gescheckt”) |
| Recessive opal | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Milky | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Ice | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Patterns | ||
| Solid | Standard (“RECESSIVE RED OR YELLOW; WHITE”) | Standard (“Schwarz; Dun; Braun; Rot; Gelb; Weiß”) |
| Grizzle | Standard (“CLASSIC GRIZZLE”) | Standard (“Blau-schimmel mit Binden; Blaufahl-schimmel mit Binden; Rotfahl-schimmel mit Binden; Gelbfahl-schimmel mit Binden”) |
| Mottled | Standard (“TIGER GRIZZLE”) | Standard (“Schwarz-getigert; Blau-getigert mit Binden; Rot-getigert; Agate Rot; Gelb-getigert; Agate Gelb; Dunkel-getigert; Dominant Rot-getigert”) |
| Splash | Standard (“PIED/SPLASH”) | No ruling |
| Chequer | Standard (“BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; BROWN BARS & CHECKS; INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Blau-gehämmert; Blaufahl-gehämmert; Braunfahl-gehämmert; Rotfahl-gehämmert; Gelbfahl-gehämmert; Indigo-gehämmert; Indigofahl-gehämmert; Gelercht”) |
| T-check | Standard (“BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Blau-dunkelgehämmert; Dunkel; Blaufahl-dunkelgehämmert; Braunfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Rotfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Gelbfahl-dunkelgehämmert”) |
| Bar | Standard (“BLUE BAR; ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; BROWN BARS & CHECKS; INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Blau mit Binden; Blaufahl mit Binden; Braunfahl mit Binden; Rotfahl mit Binden; Gelbfahl mit Binden; Indigo mit Binden; Indigofahl mit Binden”) |
| Barless | Alternate (“RARE”) | Standard (“Blau ohne Binden; Blaufahl ohne Binden; Indigo ohne Binden; Mehllicht ohne Binden; Blau-gescheckt ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gescheckt ohne Binden”) |
| Spread | Standard (“SOLIDS”) | Standard (“Dominant Rot; Dominant Gelb; Aschfahl; Aschgelb (creme); Hellandalusierfarbig; Andalusierfarbig; Dominant Rot-gescheckt; Dominant Gelb-gescheckt”) |
| Pied | Standard (“PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Blau-gescheckt mit Binden; Blau-gescheckt ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gescheckt mit Binden; Blaufahl-gescheckt ohne Binden; Braunfahl-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Almond | Standard (“ALMOND”) | Standard (“Vielfarbig; Silber-sprenkel; DeRoy”) |
| Shield-marked | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“A bull or solid eye is admissible in whites and white splashes.”) |
| Pearl | Standard (“False pearl eyes are inherent to brown pigeons and are permissible”) |
| Dark brown | Standard (“A bull or solid eye is admissible in whites and white splashes.”) |
| Red | Standard (“Ruby red or orange in color with ruby red preferred.”) |
| Orange | Standard (“Ruby red or orange in color with ruby red preferred.”) |
| Patterns | |
| Odd-eyed | Fault (“Gravel, pale or cracked eyes a serious fault.”) |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“dark in colored birds, to amber in red checks”) |
| Horn | Standard (“dark in colored birds, to amber in red checks”) |
| Pink | Standard (“flesh color preferred in whites and permissible in white splashes”) |
| Color or pattern |
|---|
| Red |
What the rulings mean
- Standard
- Described by the club's breed standard.
- Alternate
- Registrable with the club but not described by its breed standard, such as an AKC alternate colour.
- Fault
- Named by the club's breed standard as a fault: the animal can be shown but is penalised.
Color changes
How a Giant Homer's colors can change over its life.
Almondchanges toBlack
Plumage · Progressive
Redchanges toBlue
Plumage · With age
Sources
Each ruling comes from the club's published breed standard or color list.
About the Giant Homer
The Giant Homer is a big American utility pigeon, bred up from homing stock for size and bulk rather than speed, and kept for its calm, easy going nature.
The Giant Homer is a large domestic pigeon developed in the United States from racing and homing lines. Breeders moved the focus away from flight performance and selected instead for body mass, so today the breed is kept mainly as a utility bird and on the show bench. Adult birds are heavy, broad through the chest, and calm by nature.
The breed sits in the utility group of domestic pigeons, where weight, quick growth, and a settled temperament count for more than speed on the wing. Giant Homers are noticeably bigger than the standard racing homer they descend from, and breeders have kept pushing for greater size and a deep, well filled body. Even with the extra bulk, the birds have held on to the even, easy to manage temperament that homer lines are known for.
Giant Homers settle well into loft life and take handling in their stride, without much fuss. Next to racing pigeons they are not strong fliers, so most keepers house them in the loft rather than fly them for sport.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Origin | United States |
| Size | Large |
| Lifespan | 8 to 12 years |
| Group / role | Utility pigeon (also shown) |
| Good with | Loft mates and familiar handlers |
Who it suits
The Giant Homer suits keepers after a heavy, calm pigeon for a backyard loft or the show pen. Its steady nature makes it a fair choice for newer pigeon keepers, provided they can supply a secure loft, daily feeding, and a regular cleaning routine. It suits people less if they want a bird for racing or long free flights.
History and origin
American breeders built the Giant Homer during the twentieth century, selecting homing pigeons for size and bulk instead of racing ability.
The Giant Homer's roots go back to the racing and homing pigeons kept widely across Europe and North America by the late nineteenth century. Those homing birds were bred for navigation and stamina, and they became the foundation stock for a number of later utility breeds.
In the United States, breeders started selecting homer lines for size instead of flight. The aim was a bigger, heavier bird with a deep body and solid growth, suited to utility work. Through a dedicated breeding program built around selecting the biggest, best built birds, a distinct large type emerged and took the name Giant Homer.
American pigeon clubs and utility associations promoted the breed and set type goals favouring weight, body width, and a calm temperament. Standards described a substantial bird on a broad frame, setting it well apart from the lighter racing homer.
The Giant Homer is still a recognised utility breed in the United States and is also kept by show fanciers. Exact founding dates and the breeders involved are not well documented, so the breed is best described as a twentieth century American development from homing pigeon stock.
Appearance
Built heavy and broad through the chest with a deep body and smooth head, the Giant Homer is a solid step up in size from the racing homer it descends from.
The Giant Homer is built for size. It has a broad, deep chest, a wide back, and a full, rounded body carried on a sturdy frame. The head is smooth and in proportion with the body, with a medium length beak and a moderate wattle. Overall the bird looks heavy and solid rather than lean and athletic.
The stance sits fairly horizontal, with the body held level and the legs set well under the weight. Wings sit close to the body, and the tail is carried in line with the back. The overall impression is a large, well balanced utility pigeon.
| Feature | Typical description |
|---|---|
| Height | Medium build, roughly 30 to 35 cm in length |
| Weight | Large, commonly around 600 to 900 g |
| Plumage | Smooth, close feathering (no crest or frills) |
| Colours | Blue bar, blue check, silver, red, ash, white, and other common pigeon colours |
| Eyes | Orange to red eye, dark in white birds |
Plumage and colour
The plumage lies smooth and close to the body, with no crests, frills, or feathered feet in the standard type. Giant Homers come in a wide range of common pigeon colours and patterns, including blue bar, blue checker, silver, red, ash, and white, plus assorted mixed patterns. In utility selection, colour generally takes a back seat to size and body type.
Temperament
Gentle, calm, and docile, the Giant Homer takes handling and loft confinement in its stride, and ranks among the steadier of the large pigeon breeds.
The Giant Homer is known for a quiet, even temperament. Utility and show breed standards favour calm birds, and most individuals are gentle and confident around their keepers. They settle into loft routine quickly and rarely show the nervous streak seen in some lighter breeds.
With handlers, Giant Homers usually accept being picked up and checked over without much fuss. That keeps daily care and showing straightforward. Around other pigeons they are generally peaceable, though cocks will guard a nest box and breeding pairs stake out their own space during the season. They are flock birds and do best with company rather than kept alone.
Giant Homers are not strong or keen fliers, so they tend to stay close to the loft. Their steady nature and ease of handling are among the main reasons keepers choose the breed.
| Trait | Rating |
|---|---|
| Affection | 3 |
| Energy | 2 |
| Trainability | 3 |
| Noise level | 2 |
| Moulting | 3 |
Care and grooming
Giant Homers need a clean, dry loft, fresh food and water, and regular bathing access; their smooth feathering keeps grooming needs to a minimum.
Grooming
- Give birds a shallow bath two or three times a week so they can keep their feathers clean.
- Check feet and toenails regularly, and trim overgrown nails with care.
- Inspect the smooth plumage for parasites, broken feathers, or scale, especially during the moult.
- Beyond routine bathing and parasite control, no trimming or special feather care is needed.
Exercise
- Allow daily movement within a roomy loft or an attached aviary.
- Fit perches and nest boxes at different heights to encourage activity.
- Supervised loft or aviary flight is enough, since the breed is heavy and not a strong free flier.
- Avoid relying on long free flights, which do not suit the breed's build.
Environment
Giant Homers need a secure, dry, well ventilated loft that is sheltered from rain, draughts, and predators. Keep floors dry and remove droppings often to keep disease down. Give each bird enough room to avoid crowding, and set up separate nest boxes for breeding pairs. Australian summers bring long stretches of heat, so the loft needs solid shade and free airflow to stop birds overheating, alongside proper shelter through the cooler months.
Nutrition and feeding
A balanced grain mix, grit, a calcium source, and clean water keep Giant Homers in good condition, with extra protein needed through breeding and the moult.
Giant Homers are fed a mixed grain diet typical of utility pigeons. A good mix combines cereals such as maize, wheat, sorghum, and barley with legumes such as peas, beans, and vetch to supply protein. Because the breed is large and grows fast, adequate protein matters during breeding and feather growth. Insoluble grit needs to be available so the gizzard can grind whole grains, and a calcium source such as crushed oyster shell supports eggshell formation in breeding hens.
| Life stage | Amount per day | Meals |
|---|---|---|
| Adult, maintenance | About 30 to 40 g of grain mix | 1 to 2 |
| Breeding pair feeding young | Increased, fed to appetite | 2 |
| Moulting adult | Slightly increased, higher protein | 1 to 2 |
Treats and supplements
Small amounts of safe greens and seeds make fine occasional treats, but they should not take the place of the balanced grain mix. Provide grit and a calcium source year round, and add a vitamin or mineral supplement during breeding and moulting if grain quality is in doubt. Keep clean drinking water available at all times.
Health and lifespan
With good care, Giant Homers are a hardy breed that typically lives 8 to 12 years, though they are not immune to the parasites and diseases common to pigeons generally.
The Giant Homer is a robust utility breed, and with clean housing and good feeding it usually lives about 8 to 12 years. Most health problems trace back to the diseases and parasites common to all domestic pigeons rather than to any breed specific weakness. Good loft hygiene, clean water, and basic biosecurity, including quarantining new birds, are the main tools for keeping a flock healthy.
| Condition | Signs | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Canker (trichomoniasis) | Yellow throat lesions, trouble swallowing | Spreads through water and when feeding young |
| Coccidiosis | Loose droppings, weight loss, low energy | Linked to dirty, damp lofts |
| Worms | Poor condition, weight loss | Routine faecal checks help pick it up |
| External parasites (lice, mites) | Feather damage, restlessness | Bathing and loft hygiene cut numbers down |
| Respiratory infection | Nasal discharge, laboured breathing | Poor ventilation makes it worse |
Preventative care
- Keep the loft clean, dry, and well ventilated.
- Provide fresh water daily and clean feeders to stop contamination.
- Quarantine new or returning birds before adding them to the flock, as part of everyday loft biosecurity.
- Schedule routine droppings checks and parasite control.
- Follow a vaccination and worming plan suited to your region and flock.
Training
Giant Homers pick up loft routines readily and can be trained to trap in and settle, though their heavy build rules them out as racing or distance flying birds.
Training a Giant Homer is about loft management rather than performance flying. The breed is calm and picks up daily routines fast, so birds can be settled into a loft, taught to trap in for food, and conditioned to accept handling for inspection and showing. Because the breed is heavy and not built for sustained flight, it is not trained for racing or long free flights the way racing homers are.
Basics
- Settle young birds into the loft so they know it as home and where the food is.
- Train birds to trap in by feeding them inside the loft at a set time each day.
- Use a consistent call or feeding signal so birds learn to respond to it.
- Handle birds gently and often so they get used to being picked up and checked over.
- For show birds, practise posing and basket time to cut down on stress at events.
Housing and habitat
A secure, dry, well ventilated loft with enough space per bird, sturdy perches, nest boxes, and solid protection from predators and weather suits the Giant Homer best.
Giant Homers live in a loft, an enclosed structure that shields the birds from weather and predators while still giving them room to move, perch, and nest. Because the breed is large, each bird needs more floor and perch space than smaller pigeons get. Good ventilation without draughts matters, since stale, damp air brings on respiratory disease. An attached aviary or flight pen lets birds get fresh air and daylight while staying secure. Through the hotter months, cross ventilation and shade keep the loft liveable and stop birds overheating.
| Parameter | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Space per bird | Generous floor area for a large breed; avoid crowding |
| Ventilation | Steady airflow without direct draughts |
| Perches | Wide, stable perches sized for a heavy bird |
| Nest boxes | One per breeding pair, in a quiet area |
| Flooring | Dry, easy to clean surface, droppings removed often |
| Security | Predator proof mesh and latches |
Setup checklist
- Secure loft with predator proof walls, mesh, and doors.
- Adequate, draught free ventilation.
- Wide perches and individual nest boxes for pairs.
- Feeders and waterers that stay clean and dry.
- Grit and calcium source containers.
- Shaded area for the summer heat and a sheltered spot for winter.
Hatching and rearing young
Both parents usually share incubation, and Giant Homer eggs hatch in about 17 to 19 days, after which the pair feeds the squabs crop milk in the nest.
Giant Homers, like other pigeons, normally incubate and raise their own young. A hen typically lays two eggs per clutch, and both parents share incubation, with the cock often sitting during the day and the hen at night. Eggs hatch after roughly 17 to 19 days. Newly hatched squabs are fed crop milk produced by both parents over the first few days, then a mix of crop milk and softened grain as they grow. Because Giant Homers are a large breed, well fed pairs can raise heavy, fast growing young.
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Temperature | Parent incubation; about 37.5 C if incubated artificially |
| Humidity | Moderate, around 55 to 60 percent if incubated artificially |
| Days | About 17 to 19 days |
| Turning | Parents turn the eggs naturally; turn several times a day if using an incubator |
Hatching steps
- Give breeding pairs a quiet nest box and nesting material.
- Let both parents incubate the clutch undisturbed.
- Check eggs for fertility by candling after about a week if needed.
- Keep the nest area clean, dry, and free of parasites.
- Let the parents feed crop milk to newly hatched squabs.
- Make sure the parents have plenty of food and water to raise the young.
Frequently asked questions
Answers to the questions Australian keepers most often ask about the Giant Homer's size, temperament, care, lifespan, and where to find one.
How big do Giant Homer pigeons grow?
It is a large utility breed, noticeably bigger and heavier than a standard racing homer, with a broad chest and deep body. Adults commonly weigh around 600 to 900 grams.
What is the Giant Homer pigeon's temperament like?
Giant Homers are gentle, calm, docile, and confident. They handle confinement and being handled well, and are generally peaceable with other pigeons in the loft.
Are Giant Homer pigeons hard work to keep?
No. They need a clean, secure loft, a balanced grain mix with grit and water, and a routine cleaning schedule. Their care is much the same as for other utility pigeons, and their calm nature makes handling easy.
How long do Giant Homer pigeons live?
With good care they typically live about 8 to 12 years. Clean housing, a balanced diet, and parasite control help them reach the upper end of that range.
Are Giant Homers a good pigeon for beginners?
Yes, for keepers who can provide a proper loft and daily care. Their steady temperament and tolerance of handling suit newer pigeon keepers well.
Can Giant Homers home like racing pigeons?
They come from homing stock but were bred for size rather than flight. They are heavy and not strong fliers, so keepers use them as loft and utility birds rather than for racing.
Where can I find Giant Homer pigeons?
Pigeon fanciers and utility pigeon breeders keep the breed, mainly in the United States, and pigeon clubs and shows are a good source of contacts too. Availability depends on where you are.