Shiba Inu

The Shiba Inu is a small spitz-type dog and one of Japan's oldest native breeds. A fully grown Shiba stands about 13.5 to 16.5 inches at the shoulder and weighs between 17 and 23 pounds, with a compact, muscular build, prick ears and a tail that curls tightly over the back. Everything about the breed's bearing, alert, upright, faintly aloof, gives it a dignified air that owners notice straight away.

Temperament defines the breed more than looks do. Shibas are self-possessed and confident, quick to notice anything unusual nearby, and typically standoffish with people they don't know. Many groom themselves so thoroughly, and so often, that owners compare them to cats rather than dogs. Within their own household they're affectionate and loyal, though very much on their own terms.

A Shiba makes up its own mind about whether an instruction is worth following, so early socialisation and consistent, patient handling from puppyhood really do matter. Get that right and the reward is a clean, loyal companion that tends to live a long time.

Who the Shiba Inu suits

The breed suits owners who like an independent dog and don't need constant cuddles or instant obedience to feel bonded. If you want a low-odour, clean-living housemate and are willing to put in early socialisation, a Shiba is a good match. It's a poor choice for first-time owners after an eager-to-please dog, and for households that can't watch a Shiba closely around cats, birds or other small pets, given its background as a hunter.

Long before it became a companion breed, the Shiba Inu worked the brush-covered hills and mountains of central Japan, flushing and tracking small game and birds. Its size, sharp senses and agility suited close, difficult terrain, and several regional types developed independently across the country, each shaped by local conditions.

Crossbreeding with imported Western dogs had thinned the pure native stock by the early twentieth century, and concern about losing Japan's native breeds grew through the 1920s and 1930s. In 1936 the Shiba Inu was named a natural monument of Japan, part of a wider push to protect native dogs.

The breed came close to disappearing altogether during the Second World War. Bombing raids, food shortages and a distemper outbreak after the war wiped out most of the remaining dogs, and the Shiba Inu known today was rebuilt from the few surviving regional lines, brought together into a single breed.

The Shiba arrived in the United States by the mid twentieth century and gradually built a following there. In Australia the breed is recognised by Dogs Australia (formerly the ANKC) and, while still a minority breed here, has a small, dedicated following among owners drawn to its fox-like looks and cat-like independence.

Balanced and slightly rectangular in outline, the Shiba Inu carries itself with real confidence for such a small dog. The skull is broad with a moderate stop, the muzzle tapers cleanly to the nose, and the small triangular eyes sit deep-set, giving the breed its trademark fox-like expression. Small, triangular ears stand erect, and a thick, well-furred tail curls or sickles over the back. Muscle tone is obvious even at a glance, and everything about the frame suggests a dog built for quick, agile movement rather than raw power.

Coat and colours

The Shiba's coat works in two layers: a stiff, straight outer coat over a soft, dense undercoat that traps air and gives the coat its plush, stand-off look. Most dogs show urajiro, the cream to white shading across the cheeks, throat, chest, belly and inside of the legs.

Red is by far the most common colour, with black and tan and sesame (a red coat overlaid with even black tipping) also seen. Cream turns up occasionally but is generally marked down in the show ring because the urajiro pattern barely shows against such a pale base. Shedding is a year-round fact of life with this breed, and the undercoat blows out heavily once or twice a year, usually with the change of season.

Independence sits at the core of the Shiba Inu's personality. This is not a dog that pesters for attention: it decides for itself when affection is worth giving, and family members generally earn loyalty rather than being handed it automatically. Strangers are met with reserve, sometimes outright aloofness, until the dog has made its own judgement that a person is worth trusting.

That same alertness makes the Shiba a decent watchdog. It clocks changes around the house quickly and will sound the alarm on visitors, though it isn't a breed that barks constantly for no reason. A few individuals let out the notorious Shiba scream, a sharp, high-pitched yowl, when they're frustrated, overexcited or being handled against their will.

Life with other pets needs some planning. Plenty of Shibas get along with another dog in the household, but the breed's hunting background gives it a real prey drive, so cats, rabbits and other small animals need careful, supervised introductions, not a leap of faith. Two dogs of the same sex sharing a house can also clash. Consistent socialisation from puppyhood, and fair handling around food and toys, go a long way toward a Shiba that settles well with kids and other animals.

Day to day, the Shiba is a fairly low-maintenance breed. Its own grooming habits keep it clean without much help, but there are a few areas owners can't skip: coat care, exercise, and keeping the dog secure.

Grooming

• Brush once or twice a week for most of the year to lift loose hair and spread natural oils through the coat.
• During the twice-yearly coat blow, brush daily: the volume of undercoat that comes out can be startling.
• Bathe only now and then; a Shiba stays clean on its own, and a wash every few months is usually plenty.
• Trim claws regularly and check ears for dirt or odour.
• Brush teeth several times a week to keep on top of dental health.

Exercise

• Aim for at least 45 to 60 minutes of activity a day, split between walks and play.
• Add mental work too: scent games, food puzzles or a short training session all help.
• Keep the dog on lead or inside a securely fenced yard; a Shiba off lead may take off after something and ignore every recall command.
• Use a well-fitted harness or secure collar; this breed can be surprisingly good at slipping out of both.

Environment

A Shiba adjusts well to a unit or a house, provided its exercise needs are met. The double coat copes with cold easily, while over an Australian summer, especially the hot, dry conditions typical of much of the country, dogs need shade, constant water and lighter exercise through the middle of the day. A secure fence around the yard matters too, since a bored Shiba will happily explore, dig or climb, and its prey drive can send it straight over a low fence after a possum, bird or the neighbour's cat.

A complete, balanced food matched to the dog's life stage and activity level suits the Shiba well. This is a small breed that's easily satisfied and quick to put on weight if given the chance, so portion control matters more than chasing any particular ingredient. Measure meals rather than leaving a bowl out all day, and adjust the amount so the dog keeps a visible waist and ribs you can feel without pressing hard. Fresh water should be down at all times.

Treats and supplements

Treats should make up no more than about 10 percent of a Shiba's daily calories, and it pays to subtract them from meal portions so the dog doesn't creep up in weight. Small, low-calorie treats are ideal for training a food-motivated Shiba. A healthy dog eating a complete diet doesn't usually need supplements. Check with a vet before adding anything, including joint or skin and coat products.

Shiba Inus are, on the whole, a healthy and robust breed, typically living 13 to 16 years. Most see out a long, active life, but as with any breed a handful of conditions crop up more often than average. Choosing a breeder who health screens their breeding dogs, and staying on top of routine vet care, cuts the risk of inherited problems considerably.

Preventive care

• Keep core vaccinations and parasite prevention current, including tick prevention. Paralysis ticks pose a real risk to pets in parts of Australia.
• Book an annual vet check, moving to twice yearly once the dog is a senior.
• Keep the dog lean to protect the joints and support overall health.
• Provide regular dental care to head off gum disease.
• Ask breeders for hip, eye and patella screening results on both parents.

Shibas are quick to work out what's being asked of them; that's not the issue. The trouble, if it can be called that, is that a Shiba then decides for itself whether the request is worth its time. That makes the breed hard going for anyone expecting instant, eager obedience. Short sessions that keep changing hold a Shiba's attention far better than long, repetitive drills, and because most individuals are food driven, reward-based training that makes cooperation genuinely worthwhile tends to beat anything built on pressure or correction.

Recall is the sticking point for almost every owner. Off lead, a Shiba that catches an interesting scent or spots something worth chasing will often ignore a call completely, which is why many owners never fully trust recall and stick to a lead or a fenced yard instead. Broad, early socialisation to people, places and other animals shapes how the adult dog turns out, confident and manageable, or wary and difficult, so it isn't optional.

Basics

1. Begin socialisation and gentle handling as early as possible in puppyhood.
2. Teach name recognition and a solid sit first, using high-value rewards.
3. Work on lead manners early on; Shibas can plant their feet and resist pressure surprisingly well.
4. Only practise recall in safe, enclosed spaces, and never assume it will hold up outdoors.
5. Get the dog used to handling for grooming, claw trims and vet visits as part of normal training.
6. Keep sessions short and finish on a win to keep the dog willing to try again.

Sound Shiba breeding starts well before mating, with parents that have been properly health tested. Breeding dogs should be screened for hip and patella issues and have current eye results on file, since a number of inherited conditions turn up in the breed. Temperament matters just as much to a careful breeder, given how much of the Shiba's independent streak comes down to both genetics and how a puppy is handled early on.

Females can reach sexual maturity within their first year, but most reputable breeders hold off until a bitch is fully grown, physically and mentally, at around two years old, before her first litter. Pregnancy runs about 63 days from mating. Litters tend to be small, often around three puppies, though the number varies from one bitch to the next.

Raising a litter well takes attention from day one. Puppies nurse from the dam, are weaned gradually from about three to four weeks, and should get structured socialisation from early on. That early exposure to handling, everyday sounds and new experiences matters even more in a breed that can lean aloof, and it sets up a confident, easier-to-manage adult dog. Puppies usually go to their new homes at around eight weeks or older.

How to register a Shiba Inu in Australia

Punch in your Shiba Inu's name, his date of birth, and a decent photo, attach your mobile, and save. Done: a lifetime record that never bills you. Registering your dog is the easy half of responsible ownership, and the half people skip.

A chipped Shiba Inu without a registration is carrying a number nobody can use. File it with United Pet Club and the number works for him: free for life, open to every chip brand sold here, searchable from any clinic or pound in the country. Microchip registration now, free account while you're at it.