Saint Bernard

The Saint Bernard is a giant breed that developed in the western Alps, in the border country between Switzerland and northern Italy. Adults stand 66 to 76 cm at the shoulder, and males commonly weigh 63 to 82 kg. The breed is placid, friendly and patient, with a long working history at the hospice on the Great St Bernard Pass.

Indoors, most Saint Bernards are even-tempered and unhurried, moving at their own deliberate pace. They form close bonds with their household and are generally good with kids. Given the dog's size, early training and consistent handling from the first weeks home make a real difference later on.

This breed suits owners with a decent-sized house or yard, spare time, and a tolerance for drool and heavy seasonal coat drop. A Saint Bernard doesn't need much vigorous exercise, but it does need room to move about, plus a household ready for the feed bills and vet costs that come with owning a giant dog.

Who it suits

The Saint Bernard fits a settled household with plenty of indoor and outdoor space for a very large dog. It works well for families with children who can supervise interactions, given the dog's weight. Prospective owners should plan for a fairly short lifespan, regular grooming, and the higher food and vet costs of a giant breed. In Australia's hot, dry summers, this Alpine rescue breed's dense coat and bulk are far better suited to cool mountain conditions than to a Queensland or inland heatwave, so shade and water access matter from the outset.

The breed is named after the hospice on the Great St Bernard Pass, a high Alpine crossing between Switzerland and Italy. Founded in the 11th century as a refuge for travellers, the hospice kept dogs as working animals from early on. Written and pictorial records of large hospice dogs date from the late 17th and early 18th centuries.

The monks put the dogs to several uses: guarding the property, pulling carts, turning the kitchen spit, and providing warmth on cold nights. In time the dogs were also used to track down travellers lost in deep snow along the pass. Working in groups, they could locate people buried after storms, and handlers would then dig the travellers out and get them to shelter.

Harsh winters and disease took a toll on the hospice line in the early 19th century. To rebuild the numbers, hospice dogs were crossed with other large breeds, including longhaired types. The longer coat held ice and snow, so the shorthaired variety stayed the preferred working dog on the pass itself, while longhaired dogs were kept in the valleys below.

The breed took the name Saint Bernard in the mid 19th century, and a Swiss breed club followed in 1884. Barry, the celebrated rescue dog who worked at the hospice in the early 1800s, remains the best known individual of the line and turns up in most accounts of the breed's rescue history. Pedigree Saint Bernards in Australia are registered through Dogs Australia, the national body for purebred dogs.

The Saint Bernard is tall and solidly built, with a broad, deep chest and heavy bone. The head is large and wide, with a short muzzle, a well-defined stop, and loose flews that give the breed its tendency to drool. The eyes are dark and set fairly deep, giving a gentle expression, and the ears are medium-sized and hang close to the head.

Coat and colours

Both coat varieties carry the same colour pattern: a white base combined with red or brown, and many dogs show a dark mask over the eyes and ears. The shorthaired coat sits flat and feels dense to the touch. The longhaired coat runs longer over the body, legs and tail without being curly. Both varieties shed heavily, with noticeable seasonal coat blow-outs in spring and autumn.

Each club words the Saint Bernard standard its own way, so the figures below are listed per club: AKC, CKC, FCI, KC, UKC.

Size

• Height at the withers, male: AKC over 69.8 cm; CKC over 69.8 cm; FCI 70-90 cm; KC over 75 cm; UKC 73.7-78.7 cm
• Height at the withers, female: AKC over 64.8 cm; CKC over 64.8 cm; FCI 65-80 cm; KC over 70 cm; UKC 68.6-73.7 cm
• Height to length: FCI 0.9; UKC 1
• Skull to muzzle: UKC 2

Sizes that count against it

• Height at the withers, male: Disqualifying: FCI under 70 cm, UKC over 82.5 cm, UKC under 69.8 cm; Fault: UKC 69.8-73.7 cm, UKC 78.7-82.5 cm
• Height at the withers, female: Disqualifying: FCI under 65 cm, UKC over 77.5 cm, UKC under 64.8 cm; Fault: UKC 64.8-68.6 cm, UKC 73.7-77.5 cm

Build and forms

At least one club accepts each of these:

• Stop: Pronounced
• Muzzle shape: Blunt, Square
• Bite: Scissors bite, Level bite, Undershot
• Dentition: Full dentition, Missing teeth
• Ear carriage: Drop (pendant)
• Ear set: High
• Neck length: Long, Medium
• Dewlap: Pronounced
• Topline: Level
• Chest: Moderate, Deep, Broad

Forms the clubs penalise

A fault or a disqualification is a judgment under a show standard. It can affect placings and, at some clubs, registration.

• Disqualifying: Bite: Overshot (FCI)
• Fault: Bite: Undershot (AKC, CKC, UKC); Bite: Overshot (AKC, CKC, UKC); Dentition: Missing teeth (UKC); Eye shape: Round (UKC); Ear set: Low (UKC); Dewlap: Pronounced (UKC); Hocks: Straight and parallel (KC); Tail carriage: Curled over the back (AKC, KC)

Cropping, docking and other procedures

• Dewclaw removal: Alternate (UKC)

This is each club's stance in the show ring, not the law. The law on these procedures differs by country.

Markings

Each club's ruling on the breed's named marks:

• Chest patch: Standard (AKC, FCI, KC, UKC)
• Socks: Standard (AKC, FCI, KC, UKC)
• White tail tip: Standard (AKC, FCI, KC, UKC)
• Collar: Standard (AKC, FCI, KC, UKC)
• Blaze: Standard (AKC, CKC, FCI, KC, UKC)
• Mask: Standard (FCI, KC, UKC); Alternate (AKC, CKC)

See every point side by side: compare the clubs.

Rulings come from each club's published breed standard, and clubs revise their standards. Before a show or a registration, check the current text with the club.

Clubs compared for the Saint Bernard: AKC, FCI, KC, KUSA, UKC. All of them accept White, Brown, Mahogany, Red, Orange.

Patterns listed as standard for the Saint Bernard: Bicolour, Tricolour, Brindle, Piebald, Sable, Mantle.

Where the clubs split

At least one club accepts each of these, and at least one other penalises or refuses it.

• Black: Standard (FCI, KC, KUSA); Fault (UKC)
• Tricolour: Standard (KC); Fault (UKC)
• Mantle: Standard (FCI, KUSA); Not recognised (KC)

Colours penalised in the show ring

A fault or a disqualification is a judgment under a show standard. It can affect placings and, at some clubs, registration.

• Disqualifying: Solid (FCI, KUSA, UKC), Albino (FCI, KUSA, UKC)
• Fault: Black (UKC), Tricolour (UKC), Roan (FCI, KUSA)

Beyond the main colour

Standards rule on more than the main colour. These are listed as standard:

• Eyes: Brown, Dark brown
• Nose: Black

Rulings come from each club's published breed standard, and clubs revise their standards. Before a show or a registration, check the current text with the club.

The Saint Bernard has a steady, easygoing nature. Inside the house it's usually quiet and happy to camp out near its family, and it forms strong attachments to the people it lives with, often trailing them from room to room.

With children, most Saint Bernards are patient and gentle, though the dog's sheer size means young kids should always be supervised around it. The breed is typically calm and accepting of strangers rather than wary or aggressive, and it isn't much of a guard dog by nature. A Saint Bernard raised alongside dogs and cats generally gets along with them without fuss.

Energy levels are low and the breed isn't easily excitable. It can take a while to mature, and some puppy behaviour may hang around well past the first year. Early, consistent socialisation helps a giant breed grow into a manageable, well-adjusted adult.

Grooming

• Brush the coat several times a week, and daily during the spring and autumn coat blow-out.
• Wipe the flews and facial folds regularly to manage drool and keep the skin clean.
• Check and clean the ears weekly, since the drop ears can trap moisture.
• Trim nails every few weeks and brush the teeth several times a week.
• Bathe as needed, usually every one to two months depending on activity.

Exercise

• Give moderate daily exercise, such as two walks of 20 to 30 minutes.
• Avoid hard running, jumping and stairs while a pup is still growing, to protect developing joints.
• Keep activity light in warm weather, as the breed overheats easily.
• Let the dog move about at its own pace rather than pushing high-intensity sessions.

Environment

The Saint Bernard suits a home with plenty of room indoors and a secure yard to potter about in. The breed handles cold weather well but struggles in heat, so a cool, shaded, well-ventilated spot is essential over an Australian summer, particularly in the hotter inland states. Despite its bulk it's an indoor companion at heart and shouldn't be left outside alone for long stretches.

Grooming a Saint Bernard comes down to its coat, so start there.

Coats by variety

The coat differs between varieties, so check which one you have.

• Longhaired: Double coat, Rough, Long, Seasonal shedding
• Shorthaired: Double coat, Smooth, Short, Seasonal shedding

What this coat asks of you

• A double coat has a soft undercoat beneath longer guard hairs. Brush right down to the undercoat, because that is the layer that packs down and traps loose hair.
• A smooth coat lies flat and is the easiest kind to keep. A soft brush or a grooming mitt lifts dust and loose hair.
• A rough coat stands off the body and collects burrs and debris, so check it after time outdoors.
• Short hair rarely tangles but it still sheds, so regular brushing keeps the loose hair down.
• Long hair mats from the base up. Work through it in sections and keep the areas around the eyes and the rear clean.
• Seasonal shedding arrives in bursts when the coat changes, and brushing more often during those weeks keeps it manageable.

What to tell a groomer

Mention these when you book. The coat notes on this page explain each one.

• Do not shave
• Needs seasonal de-shedding

A groomer who knows the breed can adapt all of this to the individual animal. Sore skin, mats pressed against the skin or a sudden change in the coat are worth showing to a vet.

A Saint Bernard needs a complete and balanced diet formulated for large or giant breeds. During growth, a large-breed puppy formula with controlled calcium and energy levels supports a slower, steadier growth rate, which helps protect the joints. Adult portions depend on weight, age and activity level, so amounts should be adjusted to keep the dog at a healthy body condition. Feeding two meals a day rather than one large one is standard practice for the breed.

Treats and supplements

Keep treats to a small share of daily calories, since extra weight adds strain to a giant dog's joints. Fresh water should always be on offer. Check with a vet before adding any joint or other supplement, as a balanced complete food usually covers a healthy dog's needs already.

The Saint Bernard has an average lifespan of 8 to 10 years, typical for a giant breed. The main health concerns tie back to size and rapid growth, including joint disorders and the risk of gastric dilatation and volvulus, commonly known as bloat. Responsible breeders screen their breeding stock for hip, elbow, heart and eye conditions.

Preventive care

• Keep the dog at a lean, healthy weight to ease joint and heart strain.
• Feed measured meals and avoid strenuous exercise right after eating to lower bloat risk.
• Stay on top of routine vaccinations and parasite prevention.
• Book regular vet checkups, with closer monitoring in the senior years.
• Ask the breeder for the parents' health screening results.

Given how much Australian summers punish a heavy-coated Alpine breed, a hot afternoon is also worth treating as a preventive-care moment: watch for excessive panting or lethargy and move the dog to shade and water straight away.

The Saint Bernard is generally cooperative and responds well to calm, consistent handling. It can take longer to mature than many breeds, so patience is needed through the first year or two. Because an adult is very large and strong, basic manners such as walking on a loose lead and not jumping up should be taught while the dog is still young and easy to manage. Reward-based methods work best; the breed doesn't respond well to harsh handling.

Basics

1. Start socialisation early, introducing the pup to people, places and other animals.
2. Teach name recognition and a reliable recall.
3. Train loose-lead walking before the dog reaches full weight.
4. Practise sit, drop and stay in short, regular sessions.
5. Discourage jumping up and mouthing from the start.
6. Build calm behaviour around doors, food and visitors.

Saint Bernards reach physical maturity later than smaller breeds, so responsible breeders wait until a dog is fully grown and health tested before breeding from it. Gestation in dogs runs about 63 days. The breed tends toward large litters, and whelping in giant breeds can carry higher risk, so having veterinary support on hand around the birth is a sound precaution.

Newborn pups grow quickly and pack on weight fast, which makes early nutrition and a clean, warm whelping area important. Breeding dogs should be screened for hip and elbow dysplasia, heart disease and eye conditions, and breeders ought to be upfront about the parents' results. Given the breed's size and comparatively short lifespan, careful selection for health and temperament counts for a lot.

How to register a Saint Bernard in Australia

Punch in your Saint Bernard's name, his date of birth, and a decent photo, attach your mobile, and save. Done: a lifetime record that never bills you. Registering your dog is the easy half of responsible ownership, and the half people skip.

A chipped Saint Bernard without a registration is carrying a number nobody can use. File it with United Pet Club and the number works for him: free for life, open to every chip brand sold here, searchable from any clinic or pound in the country. Microchip registration now, free account while you're at it.