
Otterhound
The Otterhound is a boisterous, good-natured scenthound known for its shaggy coat, webbed feet, and love of water.
- Size
- Large
- Lifespan
- 10–13 years
- Origin
- England
- Temperament
- Good-natured
- Standard colors
- Black, White and Grey and 8 more
Characteristics
Coat and grooming
How the Otterhound coat is built, and what that means when you groom it.
- Coat layers
- Double coat
- Coat texture
- Wire
- Coat length
- Medium
- Shedding
- Low shedding
Grooming guidance
Caution: A Otterhound coat should be hand-stripped rather than clipped.
A wire coat is meant to be pulled out at the root once the hair is ready to release. Clippers cut it off part way instead, leaving the soft undercoat behind. The result is a coat that grows back limp and faded, and the weatherproof texture only returns after the hair is stripped out again.
Otterhound colors and patterns
What each club's breed standard says about every Otterhound color and pattern. Point at a ruling to see the club's own wording.
Breed standards describe the Otterhound in Black, White, Grey, Blue, Liver, Tan, Red, Lemon, Cream, Wheaten and Sandy. Standard patterns: Solid, Bicolour, Tricolour, Piebald, Parti-colour, Agouti, Grizzle and Tan point.
| Color or pattern | FCI | AKC | UKC | KC | KUSA |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“Black and tan”) | Standard (“Black”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Black and tan”) | Standard (“Black and tan”) |
| White | Standard (“White hounds”) | Standard (“White”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White hounds”) | Standard (“White Hounds”) |
| Grey | No ruling | Standard (“Gray”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Not recognised | No ruling |
| Blue | Standard (“blue”) | Standard (“Blue & Cream”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“blue”) | Standard (“blue”) |
| Liver | Standard (“occasional liver, tan and liver”) | Standard (“Liver & Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“occasional liver, tan and liver”) | Standard (“occasional liver, tan and liver”) |
| Tan | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) |
| Red | Standard (“red”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“red”) | Standard (“red”) |
| Lemon | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“Lemon”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“White Hounds may have slight lemon, blue, or badger pied markings”) |
| Cream | Standard (“black and cream”) | Standard (“Blue & Cream”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“black and cream”) | Standard (“black and cream”) |
| Wheaten | Standard (“wheaten”) | Standard (“Wheaten”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“wheaten”) | Standard (“wheaten”) |
| Sandy | Standard (“sandy”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“sandy”) | Standard (“sandy”) |
| Albino | No ruling | No ruling | Disqualifying (“Albinism”) | Not recognised | No ruling |
| Patterns | |||||
| Solid | Standard (“whole coloured”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Whole coloured”) | Standard (“whole-coloured”) |
| Bicolour | Standard (“tan and white”) | Standard (“Blue & Cream”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White & Black”) | Standard (“tan and white”) |
| Tricolour | Not recognised (“a white-bodied hound with black and tan patches distinctly separate”) | Standard (“White Black & Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Not recognised (“a white-bodied hound with distinctly separate black patches and tan patches”) | Not recognised (“a white-bodied Hound with black and tan patches distinctly separate”) |
| Piebald | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“White Hounds may have slight lemon, blue, or badger pied markings”) |
| Parti-colour | No ruling | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Particolour”) | No ruling |
| Agouti | Standard (“badger pied markings”) | Standard (“Badger Markings”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“badger pied markings”) | Standard (“badger pied markings”) |
| Grizzle | Standard (“grizzle”) | Standard (“Grizzle Markings”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“grizzle”) | Standard (“grizzle”) |
| Tan point | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Black & Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) |
| Color or pattern | FCI | AKC | UKC | KC | KUSA |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dark brown | No ruling | Standard (“The eyes are dark”) | Standard (“The deeply set eyes are dark”) | No ruling | No ruling |
| Hazel | Standard (“a blue and tan hound may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“those with liver or slate pigment may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“Those with liver or slate pigment may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“a blue and tan hound may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“a blue and tan Hound may have hazel eyes”) |
| Yellow | Fault (“Yellow eye undesirable”) | No ruling | No ruling | Fault (“Yellow eye undesirable”) | Fault (“Yellow eye undesirable”) |
| Color or pattern | FCI | AKC | UKC | KC | KUSA |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black | No ruling | Standard (“black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound”) | Standard (“Dogs with black-pigmented eye rims and noses”) | No ruling | No ruling |
| Slate | No ruling | Standard (“black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound”) | Standard (“Those with liver or slate pigment”) | No ruling | No ruling |
| Liver | Standard (“a tan hound may have a brown nose”) | Standard (“black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound”) | Standard (“Those with liver or slate pigment”) | Standard (“a tan hound may have a brown nose”) | Standard (“a tan Hound may have a brown nose”) |
| Patterns | |||||
| Butterfly nose | Standard (“A slight butterfly nose permissible”) | No ruling | No ruling | Standard (“A slight butterfly nose permissible”) | Standard (“A slight butterfly nose permissible”) |
What the rulings mean
- Standard
- Described by the club's breed standard.
- Fault
- Named by the club's breed standard as a fault: the animal can be shown but is penalised.
- Disqualifying
- The club's breed standard disqualifies an animal of this colour or pattern.
- Not recognised
- The club does not accept this colour or pattern for the breed.
Color changes
How a Otterhound's colors can change over its life.
Blackchanges toRust
Coat · With body condition · can change back
Blackchanges toGrey
Coat · Progressive
Blackchanges toBrown
Coat · In the sun · can change back
Whitechanges toRoan
Coat · With age · from 2 weeks
Tan pointchanges toSaddle
Coat · With age · from 6 to 156 weeks
Blackchanges toSnow nose
Nose · With the season · can change back
Blackchanges toPink
Nose · With the season · can change back
Sources
Each ruling comes from the club's published breed standard or color list.
Meet some of our Otterhound
A few of the Otterhound profiles members have added to United Pet Club.
About the Otterhound
A big, easygoing English scenthound with a shaggy double coat and webbed feet, built to swim after otters in icy rivers.
The Otterhound is a large scenthound that started out in England, bred to track and hunt otters along rivers and streams. That job is why it looks the way it does: a rough, water-resistant double coat and broad, webbed feet that make it a genuinely powerful swimmer.
Adults are tall and solidly built. Males typically stand around 69 cm at the shoulder and weigh 36 to 52 kg. The breed combines real stamina with a deep, carrying voice and one of the sharpest noses among the hounds. An Otterhound will follow a scent trail across water just as readily as across dry ground.
Temperament is friendly and laid-back. The Otterhound gets on well with people and other dogs, but it keeps the independent streak common to scenthounds, so it won't always drop everything the first time you call it. It's also one of the rarest dog breeds in the world, with only a small number registered in Australia in any given year.
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Origin | England |
| Size | Large (36 to 52 kg) |
| Lifespan | 10 to 13 years |
| Group / role | Hound; water scenthound |
| Good with | Families, kids, other dogs; supervise around small pets |
Who it suits
The Otterhound suits an active household with room to move and time for exercise every day. It works well for owners who enjoy hiking or a swim and who don't mind a vocal, strong-willed dog. The shaggy coat needs regular grooming, and that deep bay carries a fair distance, so this isn't the breed for a small unit or an owner after quick obedience.
History and origin
Bred in medieval England to hunt otters that were stripping rivers of fish, the Otterhound is now one of Britain's rarest native breeds.
The Otterhound came together in England, where packs of hounds were used to hunt otters along the rivers. Otters were competing with people for fish, and organised otter hunts go back to at least the medieval period, with mentions during the reigns of several English monarchs. The sport carried on in some form for centuries.
The modern Otterhound is thought to descend from a mix of rough-coated hounds and other working dogs, a blend that produced the dense coat, big frame, and strong scenting ability needed for wet ground and cold water. Exactly which breeds went into the mix isn't documented with any certainty, but the selection pressure was clear: dogs that could swim and work in packs over long days.
Otter hunting fell away through the twentieth century as otter numbers dropped. The United Kingdom gave the otter legal protection in the late 1970s, which brought otter hunting to an end in England and Wales and took away the breed's original job. Packs were disbanded or turned to other pursuits, and breeding numbers fell sharply.
These days the Otterhound is kept mainly as a companion and is recognised by the major kennel clubs, including Dogs Australia. It remains very rare, with only a handful of puppies registered worldwide each year, and dedicated breeders run conservation programs to keep the surviving lines going.
Appearance
A big, rough-coated hound with a shaggy double coat, broad head, webbed feet, and a build that's imposing without being ungainly.
The Otterhound is a big, sturdy dog with a long, rough outer coat over an oily, water-resistant undercoat. The head is large and fairly narrow, with a long muzzle and low-set ears that fold over and carry plenty of hair. The eyes are deep-set, and the overall look is open and good-humoured.
The body runs slightly longer than it is tall, with a deep chest, a strong back, and a tail carried up when the dog is on the move. The feet are large, broad, and webbed, built for swimming.
| Trait | Standard |
|---|---|
| Height | Males about 69 cm; females about 61 cm at the shoulder |
| Weight | 36 to 52 kg |
| Coat | Rough, dense double coat; oily, water-resistant undercoat |
| Colours | Any recognised hound colour; often grizzle, wheaten, black and tan, and liver shades |
| Eyes | Deep-set, dark, with an open expression |
Coat and colours
The coat is the breed's most recognisable feature: hard and shaggy, usually 5 to 15 cm long over the body, with softer hair on the head and lower legs. The undercoat carries a slight oiliness that sheds water and helps keep the dog warm while swimming. A wide range of colours is accepted, with grizzle and wheaten patterns common alongside black and tan, blue and cream, and various liver and tan combinations. Regular grooming keeps the coat from matting, especially around the ears and feet.
Temperament
Friendly, good-natured, and sociable, but independent and vocal, with a strong urge to follow a scent wherever it leads.
The Otterhound is even-tempered and affectionate, and it generally enjoys company. It's friendly with strangers and rarely shows aggression, which makes it a hopeless guard dog but a pleasant one to live with. Bred to work in packs, it usually gets on fine with other dogs.
With kids, the breed is typically patient and tolerant, though its size and exuberance mean playtime with younger children needs supervision. Around cats and smaller pets, keep an eye out: the strong hunting and scenting drive can switch on the chase instinct fast.
Independence is the defining trait here. The Otterhound thinks for itself and will happily ignore a command once it's locked onto an interesting scent. It's also notably vocal, with a deep bay that carries and gets used often. Owners should expect a dog that's sociable and game, but not naturally obedient.
| Trait | Rating |
|---|---|
| Affection | 4 |
| Energy | 4 |
| Trainability | 2 |
| Vocalness | 5 |
| Shedding | 3 |
Care
Needs regular coat care, plenty of daily exercise including a swim where possible, and a securely fenced yard to call home.
The Otterhound is high maintenance on both fronts: coat care and exercise. It suits owners who can commit real time outdoors as well as to regular grooming sessions.
Grooming
- Brush the rough coat once or twice a week to stop matting and clear out debris
- Give extra attention to the long-haired ears, beard, and feet, which trap dirt and moisture
- Check and clean the folded ears often to cut the risk of infection
- Bathe now and then, but don't overdo it: too much bathing strips the protective oils from the undercoat
- Trim nails as needed and check the webbed feet after time outdoors
Exercise
- Aim for at least 60 to 90 minutes of activity a day
- Offer a swim when you can; it suits the breed's build and instincts perfectly
- Use long walks and scent games to give that strong nose something to do
- On hot days, exercise early morning or after sundown and keep off hot pavement and asphalt, since a heavy coat like this one struggles in the heat
- Keep the dog on lead or inside a fenced area, since a scent trail can override any recall
Environment
The Otterhound does best in a house with a securely fenced backyard rather than a unit or apartment. The fence needs to be high and solid, because this is a large, energetic dog that's more than capable in water. The deep, frequent bay can carry to the neighbours, so a rural or semi-rural block suits the breed better than a tight suburban street.
Nutrition
Needs a complete large-breed diet fed in measured meals, with portions matched to size and activity so it doesn't pile on weight.
As a large, active hound, the Otterhound needs a complete and balanced diet made for big dogs. Feed a measured amount split across two meals a day rather than leaving food out, which helps keep weight in check and energy steady. Adjust portions to the individual dog's age, activity level, and body condition, and keep fresh water down at all times.
| Life stage | Amount per day | Meals |
|---|---|---|
| Puppy (2 to 6 months) | 3 to 5 cups, large-breed puppy food | 3 to 4 |
| Junior (6 to 18 months) | 4 to 6 cups | 2 to 3 |
| Adult | 3.5 to 5 cups | 2 |
| Senior / less active | 3 to 4 cups | 2 |
Treats and supplements
Keep treats to around 10 percent of daily calories to guard against extra weight, which puts strain on a large dog's joints. As a deep-chested breed, the Otterhound can be at risk of bloat, so avoid strenuous exercise right before and after meals. Talk to a vet before adding any joint or omega-3 supplements.
Health
Generally hardy with a 10 to 13 year lifespan, though prone to hip dysplasia, bloat, and an inherited bleeding disorder.
The Otterhound is a generally robust working breed with a typical lifespan of 10 to 13 years. Because the population is so small, responsible breeders screen carefully to limit inherited problems. As a large, deep-chested dog, it carries the size-related risks common to big breeds, so prospective owners should ask breeders for health-screening results on both parents.
| Condition | Signs | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Hip dysplasia | Stiffness, limping, reluctance to get up | Screen breeding stock; keep weight under control |
| Elbow dysplasia | Front-leg lameness, especially in younger dogs | Common in large breeds |
| Gastric dilatation-volvulus (bloat) | Swollen abdomen, retching, distress | Emergency; deep-chested dogs are at risk |
| Glanzmann thrombasthenia | Excessive bleeding, easy bruising | Inherited platelet disorder seen in the breed; DNA testing available |
| Ear infections | Head shaking, odour, scratching | Linked to long folded ears and time in the water |
Preventive care
- Keep core vaccinations and parasite prevention up to date
- Maintain a healthy weight to protect the hips and elbows
- Feed measured meals and let the dog rest after eating to lower bloat risk
- Clean and dry the ears regularly, especially after a swim
- Ask the breeder about DNA testing for the inherited bleeding disorder
- Book annual vet checkups, stepping up the frequency once the dog is a senior
Training
Smart but independent, so training calls for patience, consistency, and reward-based methods rather than repetitive drills.
The Otterhound is clever but headstrong, and that combination makes training slower going than with an eager-to-please breed. It was bred to work at a distance and make its own calls, so it will weigh up whether a command is actually worth following. Short, varied, motivating sessions work better than long repetitive drills. A reliable recall is hard to guarantee once the dog has locked onto a scent, so secure areas and a long line matter during training.
Basics
- Start socialisation early, introducing the puppy to people, dogs, and different settings
- Teach the dog's name and a reward marker so it learns that cooperating pays off
- Build a solid recall on a long line in low-distraction spots before pushing further
- Practise loose-lead walking early, since an adult Otterhound is large and strong
- Add scent and search games to put that natural drive to work in a rewarded way
Breeding
One of the rarest breeds alive, so breeding is carefully managed to protect genetic diversity and screen out inherited disease.
Otterhound breeding is closely managed because numbers are critically low. With only a small global population and a limited gene pool, breeders coordinate matings to protect genetic diversity and avoid concentrating inherited conditions. Females reach physical maturity at around 18 to 24 months, and responsible breeders hold off on a first litter until then.
Gestation runs about 63 days, typical for the species. Litters are moderate to large for the breed, and the puppies are slow to mature, both physically and mentally, often not fully grown until two to three years old. Raising them well means early socialisation, careful nutrition for steady large-breed growth, and screening breeding stock for hip and elbow status along with the inherited bleeding disorder. Anyone after a puppy should expect a waiting list and should deal only with breeders who health-test their dogs.
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Sexual maturity | About 18 to 24 months (first breeding) |
| Gestation | Approximately 63 days |
| Average litter size | Moderate to large for the breed |
| Physical maturity | 2 to 3 years |
| Population status | Very rare; conservation breeding under way |
Getting your Otterhound registered, chip and all
A free lifetime United Pet Club record for your Otterhound, with the microchip registered at no charge and nothing falling due each year.
How to register an Otterhound in Australia
Punch in your Otterhound's name, his date of birth, and a decent photo, attach your mobile, and save. Done: a lifetime record that never bills you. Registering your dog is the easy half of responsible ownership, and the half people skip.
A chipped Otterhound without a registration is carrying a number nobody can use. File it with United Pet Club and the number works for him: free for life, open to every chip brand sold here, searchable from any clinic or pound in the country. Microchip registration now, free account while you're at it.
How do I register my Otterhound in Australia?
Sign up free with United Pet Club, add his name, breed, and a photo, and you're done. The lifetime plan keeps the profile live at no cost, and the chip number can go in whenever the vet's done his bit.
How do I register my Otterhound's microchip?
Add the 15-digit number to your free account with your address and mobile. Registration and every update after it are free, and chips from any manufacturer an Australian vet implants are accepted.
Does my Otterhound have to be microchipped in Australia?
In most states and territories, yes, chipping is required and the register entry comes with it. The state register and your United Pet Club record do different jobs: one satisfies the council, the other keeps a current phone number one scan away, free.
What does it cost to register an Otterhound?
Nothing with United Pet Club. Profile, chip registration, and unlimited updates are covered for his whole life, no annual fee in sight.
Frequently asked questions
Common questions about the Otterhound's size, temperament, care needs, lifespan, suitability, and availability.
How big do Otterhounds get?
It's a large breed. Males stand around 69 cm at the shoulder and females about 61 cm, with weights running from 36 to 52 kg.
What's the Otterhound's temperament like?
Friendly, good-natured, and sociable with people and other dogs, but independent and very vocal, with a strong urge to follow a scent.
Is the Otterhound a lot of work?
Fairly demanding, yes. The shaggy coat needs grooming once or twice a week, the dog needs 60 to 90 minutes of exercise daily, and the loud bay and independent streak take some patience to live with.
How long do Otterhounds live?
Typically 10 to 13 years.
Are Otterhounds good with kids?
Yes. They're usually patient and affectionate with children, though their size and exuberance mean play with younger kids should be supervised, and caution is needed around cats and small pets.
Are Otterhounds easy to find in Australia?
No. The Otterhound is one of the rarest dog breeds in the world, with only a small number of puppies registered each year, so expect a long wait from any health-testing breeder.
Do Otterhounds like water?
Yes. They were bred to hunt otters and have a water-resistant coat and webbed feet that make them strong, enthusiastic swimmers.
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