Kiko

The Kiko is a meat-type goat that breeders in New Zealand developed during the 1980s. Its name traces to a Maori word for flesh or meat, which points straight to what the breed is for. New Zealand breeders selected Kikos to gain weight from pasture and brush instead of heavy grain rations, and to hold up in wet, hilly terrain with very little handling.

The breed's biggest strength is toughness. Breeders raised Kikos under harsh conditions and culled the animals that struggled, rather than nursing weak stock along. What came out of that process is a goat that resists internal parasites better than most, walks far to graze, and kids on its own most of the time. A mature doe typically weighs 45 to 65 kg (100 to 145 lb), with bucks running heavier.

Farms keep Kikos mainly for meat and for crossbreeding, since the breed adds vigor to other meat lines. Many raisers also use them for brush clearing, as Kikos will eat woody plants that most livestock leave alone.

Who should raise a Kiko

The Kiko fits farmers and backyard raisers who want a goat that earns its keep on pasture without a lot of input. It does best under an open-range or extensive setup, far more than in a small backyard pen. Anyone hoping for a cuddly pet goat or a heavy milker should look elsewhere, since the Kiko was bred for meat and field toughness, not for petting or dairy output.

Development of the Kiko started in New Zealand in the late 1970s and ran through the 1980s. Garrick and Anne Batten, working with the Caprinex Genetics group on the South Island, wanted a meat goat built for New Zealand's wet, hilly country.

The base stock came from feral goats already surviving on their own across the New Zealand countryside. Breeders crossed these hardy animals with imported dairy bucks, among them Anglo-Nubian, Saanen, and Toggenburg, to add size and faster growth while keeping the feral base's toughness.

Selection drove the whole program. Goats stayed on rough ground with little drenching, no supplemental feed, and no help at birthing. Any goat that failed to stay healthy, raise its kids, or gain weight under those conditions got dropped from the breeding pool. After a few generations the line bred true for hardiness and growth, and breeders named it Kiko.

The United States began importing Kikos in the 1990s, using them both as a purebred meat goat and as a cross to strengthen other meat lines. Breed registries in the US and other countries now record Kiko pedigrees and percentage crosses.

The Kiko is a large, well-muscled goat with a deep body and sturdy, upright legs made for covering long distances. Breeders selected for function rather than a fixed look, so Kikos vary more in size and color than show-ring breeds do. Overall, the animal reads as sturdy and athletic rather than refined.

Bucks grow heavy, sweeping horns that curve outward and back, and does carry horns too, just lighter ones. The head runs medium in length with an alert look. Hooves tend to hold up well and need less trimming than those of goats kept on soft, cushioned ground.

Coat and colors

White is the most common color and was favored in the early breeding stock, but Kikos also come in cream, tan, brown, black, and combinations of these. The coat is fairly coarse and lies close to the body in warm weather. In colder climates the goats grow a heavier winter coat with some undercoat, which they shed once the weather turns warm again.

Kikos are independent and self-reliant, a direct result of how the breed was raised. They graze and browse on their own across wide areas, stay alert to threats, and react fast. Does are attentive mothers that defend and raise their kids with little outside help.

Around people, the breed tends to stay calm but not particularly affectionate. Kikos handled regularly become easy to manage and move, while goats raised out on range can stay wary of strangers and hard to catch. They are active and curious, and they will test fences given the chance. Around other goats they are usually social and settle into a stable herd order. They coexist well with other livestock sharing the same pasture. Since this is not a clingy lap-goat breed, owners who want a close companion animal should plan on handling their goats often from a young age.

The Kiko was bred to need little day-to-day fuss, but it still calls for sound husbandry. The main needs are room to forage, strong fencing, shelter from harsh weather, and a regular health program.

Grooming

• Brush occasionally to remove loose hair during the shedding period.
• Check hooves every few months; Kiko hooves usually wear down well on their own and need less trimming than those of goats kept on soft ground.
• Inspect the coat for ticks, lice, and skin problems whenever you handle the goat.
• Keep horns and any wounds clean and monitored.

Exercise

• Give the goats open pasture or browse so they can walk and forage daily.
• Let them reach brush and woody plants, which Kikos prefer over short grass alone.
• Use rotational grazing to keep forage fresh and cut down on parasite buildup.
• Give them room; goats kept too confined get bored and may damage pens and fences.

Environment

Kikos handle wet, hilly, and cool conditions better than many other goat breeds, but they still need a dry, draft-free shelter to get out of the rain, wind, and heat, especially once typhoon season sets in. Fencing has to be tall and tight, since these are athletic goats that will test any weak spot. Clean water and free-choice minerals should be on hand at all times.

The Kiko is a forager first and foremost. Its diet should center on good pasture, browse, and hay, with grain used sparingly. Adults on quality forage often need no grain at all, while growing kids, late-pregnant does, and nursing does may need a supplement. Always keep clean water and free-choice goat minerals available, since goats have specific copper and selenium needs that cattle mineral mixes do not cover.

Treats and supplements

Small amounts of carrots, apples, or leafy browse make safe treats and useful training rewards. Free-choice loose minerals and baking soda support rumen health. In areas where the soil runs low in selenium, follow local veterinary advice on selenium and vitamin E supplementation, since both a shortage and an excess can cause harm.

The Kiko ranks among the more robust goat breeds because it was raised under harsh conditions with poor performers removed early. It shows better resistance to internal parasites than most goats, and it usually kids without assistance. Even so, it is not immune to the standard goat diseases, and good management keeps the herd healthy. With proper care, a Kiko commonly lives 8 to 12 years.

Preventive care

• Use fecal egg counts to deworm only when needed, which protects the breed's parasite resistance.
• Rotate pasture and avoid overgrazing.
• Keep vaccinations current, including CDT for clostridial diseases and tetanus.
• Provide free-choice goat minerals to prevent copper and selenium deficiency.
• Trim hooves as needed and keep bedding dry.

Easy breeding sits at the center of the Kiko's value. Does reach sexual maturity at around 7 to 12 months, though many breeders wait until a doe is closer to a year old and well grown before her first mating. Bucks can be fertile by about 5 to 7 months. Like most goats, Kikos in temperate regions tend to be seasonal breeders, cycling more strongly in the fall.

Gestation runs about 145 to 155 days. Kiko does are known for easy kidding and strong mothering, so they usually deliver and raise their kids with little intervention. Twins are common, and some does raise triplets. The kids come out vigorous and stand and nurse quickly, which fits the breed's low-input design. Many raisers wean kids at around 2 to 3 months, depending on growth and pasture conditions. Choosing replacement stock for the same hardiness traits keeps the line strong.