Leopard Gecko

The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is a small, ground-dwelling lizard native to the arid, rocky country of Central Asia, taking in Afghanistan, Pakistan and parts of north-western India. Adults grow to around 18 to 25 cm in total length, tail included. The name comes from the spotted pattern that develops across the body and tail as the animal matures.

Unlike a lot of geckos, this species has movable eyelids and no adhesive toe pads, so it can't climb glass the way a house gecko can. It gets about on the ground rather than up walls, which is why a floor-based enclosure suits it far better than a tall tank. The thick tail stores fat and works as an energy reserve for leaner times when food is scarce.

Leopard geckos are calm, unhurried animals that put up with gentle handling well once they've settled in, and that even temperament is a big part of why they're such a common pet across Australian homes and schools. They're most active around dawn, dusk and overnight, sitting out the heat of the arvo in a cool, shaded hide.

Who it suits

The leopard gecko is a good match for keepers after a small reptile with modest space needs and an easygoing temperament. It doesn't need a big enclosure, copes fine with short handling sessions, and sticks to a fairly predictable routine. A lifespan of 15 to 20 years is a serious stretch of time, though, so it suits someone up for years of consistent care rather than a passing novelty.

In the wild, leopard geckos are found across the dry highlands and rocky scrub of Afghanistan, Pakistan, north-western India and nearby parts of Central Asia. They shelter in burrows and crevices through the heat of the day and come out in the cooler hours to hunt insects.

The species was formally described in 1854 by zoologist Edward Blyth, who placed it in the genus Eublepharis, a name that points to the true, movable eyelids setting this group apart from most other geckos.

Leopard geckos made their way into the pet trade in the second half of the twentieth century and became one of the first lizards bred reliably across many generations in captivity. Because they breed readily and handle well, captive-bred stock now covers most of the demand, and wild collection has become far less common.

Decades of selective breeding have since produced a wide range of colour and pattern variants, known as morphs, everything from high-yellow and albino forms through to patternless and striped lines, all bred back from the naturally spotted wild type.

The leopard gecko has a stocky build, a broad head and a thick, segmented tail that stores fat. Its skin is covered in small, bumpy scales, giving it a slightly rough feel. Hatchlings usually show banded markings that break up into the adult spotted pattern as they grow.

Its standout feature is a pair of true, movable eyelids, which most other geckos don't have. The toes end in claws rather than sticky pads, so this gecko sticks to flat ground and low surfaces rather than climbing smooth glass.

Coat and colours

The natural form runs yellow to cream with dark brown or black spots across the back and tail. Selective breeding has thrown up plenty of colour and pattern variants, including high-yellow, albino, patternless and striped lines. A regrown tail, if the original drops off, usually comes back shorter, rounder and less sharply patterned than the original.

Day-to-day care comes down to steady warmth, clean hides and gentle handling. The gecko is a tough little animal once its set-up is right, but it doesn't do well in cold, damp or dirty conditions. Go easy on handling a newly arrived gecko for the first week or two, giving it time to settle before regular handling begins.

Grooming

• No bathing or brushing needed under normal conditions.
• A humid hide with damp substrate helps the gecko shed its skin cleanly.
• Check the toes and tail tip after each shed for stuck skin, which can constrict and cause injury.
• Spot-clean droppings, usually left in one corner, every day or two.

Exercise

• Give the gecko room to roam at ground level inside the enclosure.
• Hunting live insects provides natural activity and stimulation.
• Supervised time outside the enclosure, on a warm, safe surface, can add a bit of variety.
• Avoid cold floors and any drop that could injure the animal.

Environment

Keep the gecko in a warm enclosure with a temperature gradient, several hides and a shallow water dish. It's a solitary species by nature, so housing adults separately keeps competition and stress down. Keep the warm end and cool end clearly separated so the gecko can pick its own spot.

The leopard gecko is an insectivore through and through, eating only live invertebrates. Crickets, mealworms and dubia roaches are the usual feeders, with waxworms tossed in occasionally as a fatty treat. Insects should be gut-loaded first, meaning fed a nutritious diet themselves before going to the gecko. Keep feeder insects no longer than the width of the gecko's head, since bigger prey raises the risk of choking or impaction.

Treats and supplements

Dust feeder insects with calcium powder at most feedings, and use a vitamin and mineral supplement with vitamin D3 a couple of times a week. A small dish of plain calcium left in the enclosure doesn't hurt either. Go easy on fatty treats like waxworms, as overfeeding them is a common cause of obesity in adult geckos.

With the right husbandry, the leopard gecko is a hardy animal that commonly lives 15 to 20 years. Most health issues come down to husbandry mistakes, things like low temperatures, a poor diet or not enough supplementation, rather than disease passing between animals. A healthy gecko has clear eyes, a plump tail and reacts alertly when something moves nearby.

Preventive care

• Keep the temperature gradient correct and supply calcium with vitamin D3.
• Offer a humid hide to help with clean shedding.
• Steer clear of loose particulate substrate for geckos prone to swallowing it.
• Quarantine any new gecko before it goes near established animals.
• Weigh the gecko every so often to keep tabs on its condition.

A single adult leopard gecko is comfortable in an enclosure of at least 75 litres, or roughly a 75 by 45 cm footprint, with extra floor space always a bonus. Since the species lives on the ground and doesn't climb glass, floor area matters more than height does. Even in the warmer parts of Australia, a dedicated heat source is still essential overnight, so don't rely on room temperature alone. The set-up should stay warm and dry overall, matching the arid country it comes from.

Set-up checklist

• A warm end and a cool end to create a temperature gradient.
• An under-tank or overhead heat source fitted with a thermostat.
• At least three hides, including one humid hide.
• A shallow, stable water dish.
• A thermometer at each end, plus a hygrometer.
• A secure lid so the gecko can't do a runner.

Leopard geckos lay eggs in pairs, known as a clutch, and a female can produce several clutches across one breeding season. The eggs are soft-shelled and need a stable, warm, humid medium to develop properly. Incubation length depends on temperature, with warmer set-ups hatching sooner. In this species, incubation temperature decides the sex of the hatchlings, a pattern known as temperature-dependent sex determination.

Hatching steps

1. Move the eggs into an incubation container without turning them, keeping the same side up throughout.
2. Set the container into a stable incubator at the chosen temperature.
3. Keep the medium damp, not wet, to hold humidity steady.
4. Check in periodically for mould or collapse, and pull any clearly spoiled eggs.
5. Let each hatchling emerge in its own time and leave it be until it's absorbed the remaining yolk.
6. Move hatchlings to a small enclosure once they're active and ready to shed.