Giant Homer
The Giant Homer is a large American utility breed bred up from homing pigeons for size and substance, known for its calm, sturdy nature.
- Size
- Large
- Lifespan
- 8–12 years
- Origin
- United States
- Temperament
- Calm
- Standard colors
- Black, White and Blue and 16 more
Characteristics
Giant Homer colors and patterns
What each club's breed standard says about every Giant Homer color and pattern. Point at a ruling to see the club's own wording.
Breed standards describe the Giant Homer in Black, White, Blue, Lavender, Silver, Brown, Dun, Khaki, Bronze, Red, Ash red, Mealy, Yellow, Cream, Indigo, Dominant opal, Faded, Reduced and Ochre. Standard patterns: Solid, Grizzle, Mottled, Splash, Chequer, T-check, Bar, Barless, Spread, Pied and Almond.
| Color or pattern | NPA | BDRG |
|---|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“SOLIDS; BLUE BAR; BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; ALMOND; PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Schwarz; Schwarz-gescheckt; Schwarz-getigert; Kite; Blau mit Binden; Blau ohne Binden; Blau-gehämmert; Blau-dunkelgehämmert; Dunkel; Andalusierfarbig”) |
| White | Standard (“WHITE; CLASSIC GRIZZLE; TIGER GRIZZLE; ALMOND; PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Weiß; Blau-gescheckt mit Binden; Blau-gescheckt ohne Binden; Blau-gehämmert-gescheckt; Blau-dunkelgehämmert-gescheckt; Dunkel-gescheckt”) |
| Blue | Standard (“BLUE BAR; BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; CLASSIC GRIZZLE; TIGER GRIZZLE; PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Blau mit Binden; Blau ohne Binden; Blau-gehämmert; Blau-dunkelgehämmert; Dunkel; Hellandalusierfarbig; Andalusierfarbig; Blau-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Lavender | No ruling | Standard (“Aschfahl; Aschfahl-gescheckt”) |
| Silver | Standard (“DILUTE”) | Standard (“Blaufahl mit Binden; Blaufahl ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gehämmert; Blaufahl-dunkelgehämmert; Gelercht; Blaufahl-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Brown | Standard (“BROWN BARS & CHECKS; SOLIDS”) | Standard (“Braunfahl mit Binden; Braunfahl-gehämmert; Braunfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Braun; Braunfahl-gescheckt mit Binden; Braunfahl-gehämmert-gescheckt”) |
| Dun | Standard (“DILUTE”) | Standard (“Dun; Dun-gescheckt; Golddun; Blaufahl mit Binden; Blaufahl ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gehämmert; Blaufahl-dunkelgehämmert; Indigofahl mit Binden”) |
| Khaki | Standard (“DILUTE”) | No ruling |
| Bronze | No ruling | Standard (“Kite; Golddun”) |
| Red | Standard (“RECESSIVE RED OR YELLOW”) | Standard (“Rot; Rot-gescheckt; Rot-getigert; Agate Rot; DeRoy”) |
| Ash red | Standard (“ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; SOLIDS”) | Standard (“Dominant Rot; Rotfahl mit Binden; Rotfahl-gehämmert; Rotfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Dominant Rot-gescheckt; Rotfahl-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Mealy | No ruling | Standard (“Mehllicht mit Binden; Mehllicht ohne Binden; Mehllicht-gescheckt mit Binden; Mehllicht-gescheckt ohne Binden”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“ALMOND; DILUTE; RECESSIVE RED OR YELLOW”) | Standard (“Gelb; Dominant Gelb; Gelb-gescheckt; Dominant Gelb-gescheckt; Gelb-getigert; Agate Gelb; Dominant Gelb-getigert; Vielfarbig; Gelbfahl mit Binden”) |
| Cream | Standard (“DILUTE”) | Standard (“Gelbfahl mit Binden; Gelbfahl-gehämmert; Gelbfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Aschgelb (creme); Gelbfahl-gescheckt mit Binden; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-gescheckt”) |
| Indigo | Standard (“INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Indigo mit Binden; Indigo ohne Binden; Indigo-gehämmert; Indigo-dunkelgehämmert; Indigo-dunkel; Indigofahl mit Binden; Indigofahl-gehämmert”) |
| Dominant opal | Standard (“DOMINANT OPAL”) | No ruling |
| Faded | Standard (“FADED”) | No ruling |
| Reduced | Standard (“REDUCED”) | No ruling |
| Ochre | No ruling | Standard (“Gelercht; Gelercht-gescheckt”) |
| Recessive opal | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Milky | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Ice | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Patterns | ||
| Solid | Standard (“RECESSIVE RED OR YELLOW; WHITE”) | Standard (“Schwarz; Dun; Braun; Rot; Gelb; Weiß”) |
| Grizzle | Standard (“CLASSIC GRIZZLE”) | Standard (“Blau-schimmel mit Binden; Blaufahl-schimmel mit Binden; Rotfahl-schimmel mit Binden; Gelbfahl-schimmel mit Binden”) |
| Mottled | Standard (“TIGER GRIZZLE”) | Standard (“Schwarz-getigert; Blau-getigert mit Binden; Rot-getigert; Agate Rot; Gelb-getigert; Agate Gelb; Dunkel-getigert; Dominant Rot-getigert”) |
| Splash | Standard (“PIED/SPLASH”) | No ruling |
| Chequer | Standard (“BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; BROWN BARS & CHECKS; INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Blau-gehämmert; Blaufahl-gehämmert; Braunfahl-gehämmert; Rotfahl-gehämmert; Gelbfahl-gehämmert; Indigo-gehämmert; Indigofahl-gehämmert; Gelercht”) |
| T-check | Standard (“BLUE & BLACK CHECKS; ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Blau-dunkelgehämmert; Dunkel; Blaufahl-dunkelgehämmert; Braunfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Rotfahl-dunkelgehämmert; Gelbfahl-dunkelgehämmert”) |
| Bar | Standard (“BLUE BAR; ASH RED BARS & CHECKS; BROWN BARS & CHECKS; INDIGO BARS & CHECKS”) | Standard (“Blau mit Binden; Blaufahl mit Binden; Braunfahl mit Binden; Rotfahl mit Binden; Gelbfahl mit Binden; Indigo mit Binden; Indigofahl mit Binden”) |
| Barless | Alternate (“RARE”) | Standard (“Blau ohne Binden; Blaufahl ohne Binden; Indigo ohne Binden; Mehllicht ohne Binden; Blau-gescheckt ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gescheckt ohne Binden”) |
| Spread | Standard (“SOLIDS”) | Standard (“Dominant Rot; Dominant Gelb; Aschfahl; Aschgelb (creme); Hellandalusierfarbig; Andalusierfarbig; Dominant Rot-gescheckt; Dominant Gelb-gescheckt”) |
| Pied | Standard (“PIED/SPLASH”) | Standard (“Blau-gescheckt mit Binden; Blau-gescheckt ohne Binden; Blaufahl-gescheckt mit Binden; Blaufahl-gescheckt ohne Binden; Braunfahl-gescheckt mit Binden”) |
| Almond | Standard (“ALMOND”) | Standard (“Vielfarbig; Silber-sprenkel; DeRoy”) |
| Shield-marked | Alternate (“RARE”) | No ruling |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“A bull or solid eye is admissible in whites and white splashes.”) |
| Pearl | Standard (“False pearl eyes are inherent to brown pigeons and are permissible”) |
| Dark brown | Standard (“A bull or solid eye is admissible in whites and white splashes.”) |
| Red | Standard (“Ruby red or orange in color with ruby red preferred.”) |
| Orange | Standard (“Ruby red or orange in color with ruby red preferred.”) |
| Patterns | |
| Odd-eyed | Fault (“Gravel, pale or cracked eyes a serious fault.”) |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“dark in colored birds, to amber in red checks”) |
| Horn | Standard (“dark in colored birds, to amber in red checks”) |
| Pink | Standard (“flesh color preferred in whites and permissible in white splashes”) |
| Color or pattern |
|---|
| Red |
What the rulings mean
- Standard
- Described by the club's breed standard.
- Alternate
- Registrable with the club but not described by its breed standard, such as an AKC alternate colour.
- Fault
- Named by the club's breed standard as a fault: the animal can be shown but is penalised.
Color changes
How a Giant Homer's colors can change over its life.
Almondchanges toBlack
Plumage · Progressive
Redchanges toBlue
Plumage · With age
Sources
Each ruling comes from the club's published breed standard or color list.
About the Giant Homer
The Giant Homer is a large American utility pigeon developed from homing stock for size and body, prized for its calm, easy-going nature.
The Giant Homer is a large domestic pigeon that was developed in the United States from racing and homing lines. Breeders moved away from selecting for flight and focused on body mass instead, so today the bird is kept chiefly as a utility breed and as a show bird. A mature Giant Homer is heavy, broad-chested, and calm by nature.
Within the utility group of domestic pigeons, weight, quick growth, and a steady disposition count for more than speed in the air. The Giant Homer outsizes the standard racing homer it descends from, and fanciers have kept selecting for a bigger, deeper, well-filled body over the generations. Even with all that extra bulk, the birds have held on to the placid, easy-to-manage temperament typical of homer lines.
Giant Homers cope well with confinement and do not panic under handling. They are not strong flyers next to a racing pigeon, so most keepers house them in a loft rather than fly them competitively.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Origin | United States |
| Size | Large |
| Lifespan | 8 to 12 years |
| Group / role | Utility pigeon (also shown) |
| Good with | Loft mates and regular handlers |
Who it suits
The Giant Homer suits a keeper after a heavy, placid pigeon for a utility loft or the show pen, whether that loft stands in a suburban backyard or on a smallholding. Its steady temperament makes it a sensible choice for someone newer to pigeons, provided they can offer a secure loft, daily feeding, and regular cleaning. It suits the racing fancier far less, since this is not a bird bred for the sky or for long-distance flying.
History and origin
American fanciers developed the Giant Homer during the twentieth century, selecting homing pigeons for size and body substance rather than speed in the air.
The Giant Homer's story starts with the racing and homing pigeons kept right across Europe and North America by the late nineteenth century. Those homing birds were bred purely for navigation and stamina, and they became the foundation stock behind many of the utility breeds that followed.
American fanciers then began selecting their homer lines for size instead of flight. The aim was a bigger, heavier bird with a deep body and strong growth, one that would work as a utility pigeon rather than a flyer. Through generations of choosing the largest, best-built birds, a distinct large type took shape and earned the name Giant Homer.
Pigeon clubs and utility associations in the United States promoted the new breed, drawing up type goals that favoured weight, width through the body, and a calm temperament. Their standards called for a substantial bird on a broad frame, setting it clearly apart from the lighter racing homer.
The Giant Homer still holds recognised utility breed status in the United States today and is also kept by show fanciers there. Exact founding dates and the individual breeders involved were never consistently recorded, so the breed is best understood simply as a twentieth-century American development out of homing pigeon stock.
Appearance
The Giant Homer is a large, heavy pigeon with a broad chest, a deep body, and a smooth head, noticeably bigger and more solid than the racing homer it descends from.
The Giant Homer is built for bulk. It carries a broad, deep chest, a wide back, and a full, rounded body on a sturdy frame. The head is smooth and in proportion to the body, with a medium-length beak and a moderate wattle. On the whole the bird reads as heavy and solid rather than sleek and athletic.
Its stance is fairly horizontal, the body held level and the legs positioned to carry the weight. The wings sit close to the body, and the tail runs in line with the back. The overall impression is of a large, well-balanced utility pigeon.
| Feature | Typical description |
|---|---|
| Height | Medium-built, roughly 30 to 35 cm in length |
| Weight | Large, typically 600 to 900 g |
| Coat | Smooth, close feathering (no crest or frill) |
| Colours | Blue bar, blue chequer, silver, red, ash, white, and other common pigeon colours |
| Eyes | Orange to red eyes, dark in white birds |
Coat and colouring
The plumage lies smooth and close to the body, with no crest, frill, or feathered feet in the standard type. Giant Homers turn up in most of the common pigeon colours and patterns, among them blue bar, blue chequer, silver, red, ash, and white, plus assorted mixed patterns. In utility selection, colour takes a back seat to size and body type.
Temperament
The Giant Homer is gentle, calm, and docile, and it copes with handling and confinement better than most large pigeon breeds.
The Giant Homer is known for a quiet, even temperament. The utility and show standard favours calm birds, and most individuals are gentle and confident around the people who keep them. They settle into a loft routine without fuss and rarely show the jumpiness you see in some of the lighter breeds.
Giant Homers usually accept being picked up and examined without much of a struggle, so daily care and showing are both straightforward. They tend to get along with other pigeons too, though cocks will defend a nest box and breeding pairs stake out their own patch during the season. As flock birds, they do best housed with company rather than kept alone.
Giant Homers are neither strong nor eager flyers, so they tend to stay close to home. Their steadiness and tolerance of handling count among the main reasons keepers value the breed.
| Trait | Rating |
|---|---|
| Affection | 3 |
| Energy | 2 |
| Trainability | 3 |
| Vocalness | 2 |
| Shedding | 3 |
Care and grooming
Giant Homers need a clean, dry loft, fresh food and water, and regular bathing access, and their smooth feathering calls for very little specialised grooming.
Grooming
- Put out a shallow bath two or three times a week so the birds can keep their feathers clean.
- Check feet and toenails on a regular basis, and trim overgrown nails with care.
- Inspect the smooth plumage for parasites, broken feathers, or scale, especially during the moult.
- Beyond routine bathing and parasite control, no trimming or special coat care is called for.
Exercise
- Allow the birds daily movement within a roomy loft or an attached aviary.
- Fit perches and nest boxes at varied heights to keep them active.
- Supervised loft or aviary flight is sufficient, since the breed is heavy and not a strong free flyer.
- Do not rely on long free flights, which do not suit this breed's build.
Environment
Giant Homers need a secure, dry, well-ventilated loft that keeps out rain, draughts, and predators. Floors must stay dry, with droppings removed often to keep disease down. Give each bird adequate space to avoid overcrowding, and fit separate nest boxes for breeding pairs. South Africa's climate differs sharply by region and altitude, so a loft on the frosty Highveld needs more draught-proofing in winter than one on the humid KwaZulu-Natal coast, while a loft in the Karoo or Bushveld needs generous shade against the summer heat.
Nutrition and feeding
Giant Homers do best on a balanced pigeon grain mix with grit, a calcium source, and clean water, plus extra protein during breeding and the moult.
Giant Homers eat a mixed grain diet typical of utility pigeons. A good mix combines cereals such as maize, wheat, sorghum, and barley with legumes such as peas, beans, and vetch for protein. Because the breed is large and grows quickly, protein matters during breeding and when new feathers are coming in. Insoluble grit must always be on offer so the gizzard can grind whole grains, and a calcium source such as crushed oyster shell helps breeding hens form strong eggshells.
| Life stage | Amount per day | Meals |
|---|---|---|
| Adult, maintenance | About 30 to 40 g of grain mix | 1 to 2 |
| Breeding pair feeding young | Increased, fed to appetite | 2 |
| Moulting adult | Slightly increased, higher protein | 1 to 2 |
Treats and supplements
Small amounts of safe greens and seeds work well as an occasional treat, but they must not replace the balanced grain mix. Keep grit and a calcium source available year-round, and add vitamin or mineral supplements during breeding and moulting if you are unsure of the grain quality. Clean drinking water should always be on hand.
Health and lifespan
Giant Homers are generally hardy and, with good care, live about 8 to 12 years, though they remain prone to the common pigeon diseases and parasites.
The Giant Homer is a robust utility breed, and with clean housing and good feeding it usually reaches 8 to 12 years of age. Most health issues stem from the diseases and parasites common to all domestic pigeons rather than from any defect specific to the breed. Sound loft hygiene, clean water, and quarantining new birds remain the main tools for keeping a flock healthy.
| Condition | Signs | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Canker (trichomoniasis) | Yellow lesions in the throat, difficulty swallowing | Spreads through water and when feeding young |
| Coccidiosis | Loose droppings, weight loss, low energy | Linked to dirty, damp lofts |
| Worms | Poor condition, weight loss | Routine faecal checks help detect it |
| External parasites (lice, mites) | Feather damage, restlessness | Bathing and loft hygiene cut the load |
| Respiratory infection | Nasal discharge, laboured breathing | Poor ventilation makes it worse |
Preventive care
- Keep the loft clean, dry, and well ventilated.
- Provide fresh water daily and keep feeders clean to prevent contamination.
- Quarantine new or returning birds before they join the flock.
- Schedule routine droppings checks and parasite control.
- Follow a vaccination and deworming plan suited to your area and flock.
Training
Giant Homers pick up loft routines readily and can be trained to trap in and settle, though their heavy build rules them out as racing or distance flyers.
Training a Giant Homer centres on loft management rather than performance flying. The breed is calm and picks up daily routines quickly, so a bird can be settled to its loft, taught to trap in for food, and conditioned to accept handling for inspection and showing. Because the breed is heavy and not built for sustained flight, nobody trains it for racing or long free flights the way a racing homer is trained.
Basics
- Settle young birds into the loft so they come to recognise it as home and as the source of food.
- Train birds to trap in by feeding them inside the loft at a set time each day.
- Use a consistent call or feeding signal so the birds learn to respond to it.
- Handle birds gently and often so they get used to being picked up and examined.
- For show stock, practise posing and basket time so the birds stay calm at events.
Housing and habitat
Giant Homers need a secure, dry, well-ventilated loft with enough space per bird, perches, nest boxes, and protection from predators and the weather.
Giant Homers live in a loft: an enclosed structure that shields the birds from weather and predators while giving them room to move about, perch, and nest. Because the breed is large, each bird needs more floor and perch space than a smaller pigeon would. Good ventilation without draughts matters, since stale, damp air encourages respiratory disease, a real risk in the humid air along the KwaZulu-Natal and Cape coasts. An attached aviary or flight pen gives the birds fresh air and light while keeping them secure.
| Parameter | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Space per bird | Generous floor area for a large breed; avoid overcrowding |
| Ventilation | Steady airflow without direct draughts |
| Perches | Wide, stable perches sized for a heavy bird |
| Nest boxes | One per breeding pair, sited in a quiet spot |
| Flooring | Dry, easy-to-clean surface, droppings removed often |
| Security | Predator-proof mesh and latches |
Setup checklist
- A secure loft with predator-proof walls, mesh, and doors.
- Adequate, draught-free ventilation.
- Wide perches and individual nest boxes for breeding pairs.
- Feeders and waterers that stay clean and dry.
- Containers for grit and a calcium source.
- A shaded spot for hot weather and shelter for the cold.
Hatching and rearing young
Giant Homer eggs hatch in about 17 to 19 days, usually incubated by both parents, who then feed the squabs crop milk in the nest.
Giant Homers, like other pigeons, normally incubate and raise their own young. A hen usually lays two eggs to a clutch, and both parents share the incubation, with the cock typically sitting during the day and the hen taking the night shift. Eggs hatch after roughly 17 to 19 days. Newly hatched squabs feed on crop milk produced by both parents in the first few days. As they grow, the diet shifts to a mix of crop milk and softened grain. Because Giant Homers are a large breed, a well-fed pair can rear heavy, fast-growing young.
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Temperature | Parent incubation; about 37.5 °C if incubated artificially |
| Humidity | Moderate, around 55 to 60 per cent if incubated artificially |
| Days | About 17 to 19 days |
| Turning | Parents turn the eggs naturally; turn several times a day if using an incubator |
Hatching steps
- Give breeding pairs a quiet nest box and suitable nesting material.
- Let both parents incubate the clutch without disturbance.
- Check eggs for fertility by candling after about a week, if needed.
- Keep the nest area clean, dry, and free of parasites.
- Allow the parents to feed crop milk to the newly hatched squabs.
- Make sure the parents have plenty of food and water to rear the young.
Frequently asked questions
Common questions about the Giant Homer cover its size, temperament, care needs, lifespan, suitability for beginners, and where to find one.
How big does a Giant Homer pigeon get?
It is a large utility breed, noticeably bigger and heavier than a standard racing homer, with a broad chest and a deep body. Adults commonly weigh somewhere between 600 and 900 grams.
What kind of temperament does a Giant Homer have?
Giant Homers are gentle, calm, docile, and confident. They cope well with handling and confinement, and they are generally peaceable with other pigeons in the loft.
Are Giant Homers hard to look after?
No. They need a clean, secure loft, a balanced grain mix with grit and water, and routine hygiene. Their care is much like that of other utility pigeons, and their calm nature makes handling easy.
How long do Giant Homers live?
With good care they usually live about 8 to 12 years. Clean housing, a balanced diet, and parasite control help a bird reach the upper end of that range.
Are Giant Homers good pigeons for a beginner?
Yes, for anyone who can provide a proper loft and daily care. Their steady temperament and tolerance of handling make them a sensible choice for someone new to pigeon keeping.
Can Giant Homers home like racing pigeons do?
They descend from homing stock, but breeders selected them for size rather than flight. They are heavy and not strong flyers, so keepers treat them as loft and utility birds rather than racers.
Where can I get hold of a Giant Homer?
They are available through pigeon fanciers and utility breeders, mainly in the United States, as well as through pigeon clubs and shows. Availability varies from one region to another.
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