Saluki

The Saluki ranks among the oldest sighthound breeds still recognisable today, developed across the Arabian Peninsula and the wider Middle East long before formal breed registries existed. It is a medium-sized hound built to run down game across open, rough ground using sight and sustained speed rather than scent. The frame is narrow and light, with a deep chest and long legs that carry the dog through a fast, low gallop.

At home the Saluki is quiet and undemanding, but it stays independent and a bit standoffish around people it does not know. It bonds closely with its own family while remaining reserved with visitors, and that mix of calm house manners and serious outdoor drive is what sets the breed apart.

Salukis carry themselves with dignity rather than the bounce and silliness of many companion breeds. They do not take well to rough handling and need an owner who understands sighthound instincts, including the hard-wired urge to chase anything that runs.

Who the Saluki suits

The Saluki suits owners who want a calm, clean, quiet dog indoors but can commit to hard, regular exercise in a properly secured space. It fits people who accept that an independent dog will not always come back the moment it is called once it has picked up speed. A garden with high, secure fencing is essential, and homes with free-roaming cats or small dogs should manage introductions carefully.

The Saluki's roots run back to the Arabian Peninsula and the broader Middle East, where desert-dwelling and nomadic communities kept lean, fast hounds for hunting gazelle, hare, and other game across open terrain. Slender, long-legged hounds appear in ancient art from the region, and the type is widely regarded as one of the oldest hunting breeds still recognisable in dogs today.

The breed grew up alongside a coursing tradition in which fast hounds worked open ground, at times paired with falcons and horses in a single hunt. Local bloodlines were prized for speed and stamina, and dogs were frequently kept as valued members of the household rather than working animals kept at a distance. Different regions produced both smooth-coated and feathered types, suited to their own terrain and climate.

Salukis reached Europe through travellers, traders, and diplomatic ties with the Middle East, and interest grew in Britain during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as dedicated breeders worked to establish the type in Western kennels.

From there the breed gained recognition from major kennel bodies and spread further afield, including to southern Africa, where it is registered with the Kennel Union of Southern Africa (KUSA) and shown in sighthound and lure coursing circles. The core purpose has never changed: a hound built to spot fast game at distance and run it down.

The Saluki has a light, elegant outline built purely for speed. The chest is deep and narrow, the loin is tucked up, and the legs are long and fine-boned. The head is long and refined, the skull smooth, and the eyes are large and oval, giving a calm, far-seeing expression that many owners find striking. The tail is long, carried low with a natural curve, and often feathered underneath.

Two coat types occur. The smooth variety has a short, close coat over the whole body, while the feathered variety carries longer hair on the ears, the backs of the legs, and the tail.

Coat and colours

The Saluki's coat lies fine and close to the body, so grooming is light compared with heavier-coated breeds. Feathered dogs carry the extra length mainly on the ears, legs, and tail. Colour varies widely and is broadly accepted, from solid cream and red through grizzle, black and tan, to tricolour. Because the coat is thin, it gives little protection against cold, and the breed feels a chilly highveld winter's night far more than a thick-coated breed would.

Clubs set their own figures for the Saluki. These come from each club's published standard: AKC, CKC, FCI, KC, UKC.

Size

• Height at the withers: AKC 58.4-71.1 cm; CKC 58.5-71 cm; FCI 58-71 cm; KC 58-71 cm; UKC 58.4-71.1 cm
• Height to length: FCI 1; UKC 1

Build and forms

At least one club accepts each of these:

• Bite: Scissors bite
• Dentition: Full dentition
• Eye shape: Oval
• Ear carriage: Drop (pendant)
• Ear set: High
• Neck length: Long
• Chest: Deep
• Tuck-up: Pronounced
• Hocks: Well let down
• Tail length: Long

Forms the clubs penalise

A fault or a disqualification is a judgment under a show standard. It can affect placings and, at some clubs, registration.

• Fault: Topline: Roach (arched) (KC); Chest: Barrel (FCI, KC); Feet: Cat foot (CKC, FCI, KC, UKC); Feet: Splayed (CKC, FCI, KC, UKC)

See every point side by side: compare the clubs.

Rulings come from each club's published breed standard, and clubs revise their standards. Before a show or a registration, check the current text with the club.

On the Saluki, every club we track agrees on Black, White, Grey, Silver, Chocolate, Tan. Clubs compared: AKC, FCI, KC, KUSA, UKC.

Patterns listed as standard for the Saluki: Solid, Tricolour, Brindle, Parti-colour, Sable, Grizzle.

Where the clubs split

At least one club accepts each of these, and at least one other penalises or refuses it.

• Brindle: Standard (AKC); Fault (FCI, UKC); Not recognised (KC, KUSA)
• Blue: Standard (FCI, UKC); Not recognised (AKC, KC, KUSA)
• Reverse brindle: Standard (AKC); Fault (FCI, UKC); Not recognised (KC, KUSA)

Colours penalised in the show ring

A fault or a disqualification is a judgment under a show standard. It can affect placings and, at some clubs, registration.

• Disqualifying: Albino (UKC)
• Fault: Brindle (FCI, UKC), Reverse brindle (FCI, UKC)

Beyond the main colour

Standards rule on more than the main colour. These are listed as standard:

• Eyes: Dark brown, Hazel
• Nose: Black, Liver

Rulings come from each club's published breed standard, and clubs revise their standards. Before a show or a registration, check the current text with the club.

Indoors the Saluki is typically calm and gentle, often happy to lie around for long stretches between exercise sessions. With its own people it can be affectionate and closely bonded, though it tends to show this quietly rather than with an over-the-top display. The breed is sensitive and does not respond well to shouting or heavy-handed correction.

Around strangers the Saluki usually keeps its distance and takes its time to warm up. It is not an aggressive breed, but do not expect instant friendliness from a dog meeting someone for the first time. With children it tends to be patient, and it generally does best with older kids who understand calm, respectful handling rather than rough play.

The trait that defines the breed is its chase drive. A cat darting across the garden, a small dog, or wildlife on the veld can set off an instant, high-speed pursuit, and a Saluki mid-chase is extremely hard to call back. Secure, high fencing and a lead in open or unfenced areas matter a great deal, and any small pets already in the home need careful, supervised introductions.

Grooming

• Brush the smooth variety once a week; brush the feathered variety two or three times a week to keep the ear, leg, and tail feathering free of tangles.
• Check and clean the long ears regularly, since their hanging shape traps moisture and dirt, especially after time spent in long grass.
• Trim nails as needed and check the feet after running on hard or stony ground.
• Bath only occasionally; the coat stays fairly clean and does not tend to smell.

Exercise

• Give the dog daily exercise, including regular chances to run flat out in a securely fenced area.
• Keep the dog on lead or inside a fully enclosed space, since recall cannot be trusted once a chase starts.
• Lure coursing and similar sighthound sports suit the breed well, and several South African sighthound clubs run informal coursing days.
• Balance hard running with the long rest periods the breed naturally takes indoors.

Environment

The Saluki settles well into a quiet home and is generally undemanding indoors. Because the coat is thin and the dog carries little body fat, it feels the cold, and a coat for winter, warm bedding, and padded resting spots that protect bony pressure points all help, particularly through highveld winters where night temperatures drop sharply. Secure, high fencing is essential, since a Saluki clears low walls easily and covers ground at real speed. Where electric fencing tops a boundary wall, check that the top strands cannot catch a running dog, as a lean sighthound can misjudge a jump.

Most of what a Saluki needs from grooming follows from its coat.

Coats by variety

The coat differs between varieties, so check which one you have.

• Feathered: Single coat, Silky, Medium, Low shedding
• Smooth: Single coat, Smooth, Short, Low shedding

What this coat asks of you

• A single coat has no dense undercoat, so there is less to brush out and less insulation against the cold.
• A silky coat tangles where it rubs, so comb it through in layers instead of brushing over the top.
• A smooth coat lies flat and is the easiest kind to keep. A soft brush or a grooming mitt lifts dust and loose hair.
• Medium-length hair starts to tangle wherever it rubs, so pay attention to those spots.
• Short hair rarely tangles but it still sheds, so regular brushing keeps the loose hair down.
• Low shedding does not mean low upkeep. Hair that stays in the coat can still tangle unless it is brushed out.

What to tell a groomer

Mention these when you book. The coat notes on this page explain each one.

• Needs regular clipping

A groomer who knows the breed can adapt all of this to the individual animal. Sore skin, mats pressed against the skin or a sudden change in the coat are worth showing to a vet.

The Saluki is naturally lean, and a slim, tucked-up waist is normal and healthy for the breed rather than a sign of being underweight. Feed a complete, balanced food suited to age and activity level, and judge the amount by keeping the ribs easy to feel but not sharply visible. Dogs doing hard coursing work may need extra food on big training or event days, while a quiet house dog needs less. Fresh water should be available at all times, particularly on hot lowveld days.

Treats and supplements

Keep treats to a small share of the daily food so the lean body condition holds. Most Salukis on a complete diet do not need extra supplements as a matter of course; anything added, such as joint support for an active or older dog, should be discussed with a vet first. Because the breed runs lean and burns through food quickly, change diets gradually rather than all at once, to avoid an upset stomach.

The Saluki is generally a tough, long-lived breed, typically reaching 12 to 14 years of age. As a lean sighthound it carries very little body fat, which affects how it copes with cold and how it responds to certain medications. Like any breed it has a handful of health issues worth watching for, and care from a vet familiar with sighthounds makes a real difference.

Ticks are a genuine concern for dogs across much of South Africa, and tick-borne biliary (canine babesiosis) can become serious very quickly if it is missed. Owners in tick-prone areas, from the bushveld to grassy suburban gardens, should use reliable tick prevention year-round and get any dog that seems suddenly weak, feverish, or off-colour checked without delay.

Preventive care

• Stay current with vaccinations and parasite control, with extra attention to ticks given how common biliary is in South African dogs.
• Book regular dental checks and yearly health checks, more often once the dog is older.
• Keep the dog lean and consistently exercised.
• Use a vet who understands sighthounds for any procedure involving anaesthesia.
• Protect the dog from the cold with bedding and a coat when temperatures drop.

The Saluki is intelligent but independent, and it does not train with the eager, please-the-boss attitude of many working breeds. It learns commands easily enough, yet it often decides for itself whether to obey, especially outdoors where the urge to chase competes with any recall command. The breed is sensitive and shuts down under harsh handling, so calm, consistent, reward-based methods work far better than pressure or repetition. Early socialisation helps a naturally reserved dog grow into a confident adult around people, places, and other animals.

Basics

1. Start socialisation early, gently exposing the puppy to different people, surfaces, sounds, and calm dogs.
2. Teach a solid lead routine from the start, since most exercise will happen on lead in open spaces.
3. Build focus and name response with food and praise in a quiet, low-distraction setting before adding distractions.
4. Practise recall only inside a fully fenced area, and accept that recall around moving prey may never be fully reliable.
5. Keep sessions short and upbeat to suit the breed's sensitivity and limited patience for repetition.

Salukis mature slowly, and breeding is best left until both parents are fully grown and health-screened, generally around two years old. Mating, pregnancy, and whelping follow the usual canine pattern, with a gestation of roughly nine weeks. Litter size varies, averaging several puppies.

Newborn puppies depend entirely on their mother for warmth and milk in the first weeks. Because the breed is lean with little natural insulation, a warm, draught-free whelping area matters. Puppies should stay with the mother and littermates through the early socialisation window so they pick up normal dog behaviour, then get gentle, ongoing exposure to new experiences once they move to new homes. Responsible breeders screen breeding stock for heart problems and other known concerns, and place puppies only with owners ready for a sighthound's exercise and containment needs.

Saluki registration and microchips in South Africa

South Africa has no single national law forcing microchips on dogs, though the SPCA chips as standard and rabies vaccination is required by law. What actually reunites a lost Saluki with you is a record, and that part is free: a United Pet Club profile carries your details beside the dog's photo for as long as you have him. Registering your dog takes a few minutes, with no fee attached.

A chipped Saluki still needs the number loaded into a registry, because the vet's job ends with the implant. Register the microchip on the free lifetime plan: any brand a local vet uses qualifies, updates stay free when you relocate between provinces, and the record answers the lookups SPCA branches run daily. Create your free account and settle both records today.