Belgian Hare

The Belgian Hare is a large domestic rabbit shaped to resemble a wild hare, though the two are not related. It has a long, fine-boned body, a deeply arched back, and slim legs, giving it a stretched, racy outline unlike most other rabbit breeds.

Adults typically weigh between 2.7 and 4 kilograms. The coat is short, close, and glossy, in a deep chestnut or tan red that marks the breed out at a glance. There is little spare flesh on the frame, and the rabbit often perches high on its hindquarters with the front legs straight, which adds to the hare-like stance.

This is a busy, watchful animal, quick to notice movement and sound, and it wants more room and stimulation than many calmer breeds. Owners tend to describe it as spirited rather than easygoing, and it suits people who can give it space to stretch its legs and regular time out of the hutch.

Who it suits

The Belgian Hare suits an owner after an active, interactive rabbit who can offer a roomy enclosure plus daily time outside the hutch. It is not the breed for anyone wanting a small lap rabbit or one happy to stay penned for long stretches. Its energy and dislike of rough handling make it a poor match for very young children, though settled older kids who handle it gently often get on well with one.

The breed's roots go back to Belgium in the 1800s, where breeders worked over several generations to produce a rabbit that looked like the wild European hare. The aim was appearance, not a new species, so what emerged was still a domestic rabbit, selected for a long arched body and a rich reddish coat.

The rabbits reached England in the 1870s, and English breeders sharpened the type further, pushing the racy build and deep colouring that defines the breed today. English fanciers did much of the work fixing the standard and showing the breed widely.

From England the Belgian Hare made its way to the United States around 1888, and demand took off in the early 1900s, a period sometimes nicknamed the Belgian Hare boom, when prices ran high and clubs sprang up to support breeders. Stock also reached New Zealand and Australia around the same era, brought in under the import rules of the day, since livestock entering the country has always faced strict biosecurity checks, now overseen by the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI).

Interest cooled later as other breeds took over the show tables, and the Belgian Hare became a minority breed. Today it is kept mainly by committed fanciers and exhibitors through breed clubs affiliated with the national rabbit fancy, who maintain the distinctive type rather than breed it for the general pet market.

The Belgian Hare is built for a hare-like silhouette. The body runs long and slim, the back arches well, and the loin stays fine rather than heavy. The legs are long and slender, and the rabbit stands tall off the ground with the front legs straight and the body lifted. The head is fairly long on a slim neck, and the ears sit medium length and erect.

Coat and colours

The signature colour is a deep chestnut or tan red spread evenly over the body. Many rabbits show fine black ticking through the coat, and the wavy, ticked effect across the back is valued on the show table. The undercolour usually runs slate blue at the base. The fur sits close to the body and springs back into place when stroked against the grain, a flyback coat that needs little work to keep its shine.

The Belgian Hare ranks among the more active rabbit breeds. It stays curious and alert, quick to clock movement and sound, and it can spook more easily than steadier breeds. Given space, it runs, leaps, and explores rather than sitting put for long.

With people it knows well, the breed can be friendly and engaged, and many learn to recognise their owners and settle into a routine. It does not usually enjoy being picked up and held, and it may struggle or kick out if handled roughly, so calm, confident handling matters.

Around strangers the rabbit tends to hang back at first and needs time to settle in. With other rabbits it can live in compatible pairs or groups once introductions happen gradually and desexing is done where appropriate. Its quick movements mean introductions to dogs or cats need care and supervision, since a sudden bolt can set off a chase.

The Belgian Hare asks little in grooming but a lot in space and exercise. Its energy means daily activity is not optional, and a cramped hutch will not suit it.

Grooming

• Brush once a week to shift loose hair and keep the coat glossy.
• Step brushing up to two or three times a week during seasonal moults.
• Check nails every few weeks and trim when they grow long.
• Look over the ears, eyes, and rear end regularly for signs of trouble.

Exercise

• Give it at least several hours a day outside the hutch in a safe, rabbit-proofed space.
• Allow room to run, leap, and stretch, since this breed needs more movement than most.
• Offer tunnels, platforms, and safe chew items to keep it occupied.
• Supervise time outdoors and guard against predators and escape, especially where a section backs onto open paddock or bush.

Environment

Keep the rabbit in a roomy enclosure with solid flooring, set in a draught-free, shaded spot away from harsh heat. The breed dislikes being cooped up, so the hutch should be a base rather than its whole world. Provide a quiet retreat where it can hide, since it spooks easily and does better with somewhere to feel secure.

Grass hay should make up the bulk of the diet and stay available round the clock. Hay keeps digestion moving and wears down teeth that grow continuously. A measured serve of plain pellets and a daily helping of suitable leafy greens round things out. Fresh water needs to be on hand at all times.

Treats and supplements

Keep treats small and occasional. A few slices of carrot or apple, or a small piece of herb, are plenty. Steer clear of commercial treats loaded with sugar or seeds. A rabbit on good hay, quality pellets, and varied greens rarely needs supplements, so add vitamins or minerals only on veterinary advice.

The Belgian Hare is a generally hardy breed with a typical lifespan of 7 to 11 years when well looked after. Its slim build and busy nature keep it lean, but it carries the same common rabbit health risks and needs close watching, since rabbits mask illness well.

In New Zealand, pet rabbits also face a specific local risk: calicivirus (rabbit haemorrhagic disease) strains that were deliberately released to control wild rabbit populations circulate widely, and unvaccinated pet rabbits can catch them. Vaccination through a rabbit-savvy vet is treated as routine here, not an optional extra.

Preventive care

• Provide unlimited grass hay to support teeth and gut function.
• Check the rabbit daily for appetite, droppings, and normal behaviour.
• Inspect ears, teeth, and the rear at least weekly.
• Keep the enclosure clean and dry to prevent sore hocks and flystrike.
• Ask a rabbit-experienced vet about calicivirus vaccination and a routine health check.

Housing needs to match the breed's size and energy, so a standard small hutch will not cut it. The enclosure has to give the rabbit room to stretch out, stand up, and take a few hops, and it should connect to a larger run or rabbit-proofed area for daily exercise. Solid flooring protects the feet, and a sheltered, draught-free spot guards against heat, cold, and damp, which matters through a New Zealand year of wet winters and warm, often humid summers.

Setup checklist

• A large enclosure with a solid, well-bedded floor.
• A separate or attached run for daily running and leaping.
• A hide or covered spot for security.
• Heavy bowls or a bottle for water plus a hay rack.
• A litter area and safe chew and enrichment items.

Belgian Hares are usually put to breeding once mature and in good condition, often from around 6 to 8 months old. Breeding the slim, racy type takes care, since breeders aim to keep the long arched body, fine bone, and rich colouring without losing health or vigour.

Mating happens by bringing the doe to the buck's enclosure. After a successful mating the doe carries the litter for roughly 28 to 31 days. A nest box with clean bedding should go in before the due date so the doe can build a nest and line it with pulled fur.

Litters run moderate in size. The doe usually feeds the litter once or twice a day, and the young arrive hairless and blind. Kits open their eyes at around 10 days and start leaving the nest and nibbling solid food in the weeks after. Weaning generally falls around 6 to 8 weeks, after which the young can move to their own housing.