Old German Owl
The Old German Owl is a small frilled pigeon with a striking gull marking and a calm, docile temperament that makes it a favorite among fanciers.
- Size
- Small
- Lifespan
- 8–12 years
- Origin
- Germany
- Temperament
- Calm
- Standard colors
- Black, White and Blue and 9 more
Characteristics
Old German Owl colors and patterns
What each club's breed standard says about every Old German Owl color and pattern. Point at a ruling to see the club's own wording.
Breed standards describe the Old German Owl in Black, White, Blue, Lavender, Silver, Brown, Dun, Khaki, Red, Ash red, Yellow and Cream. Standard patterns: Solid, Grizzle, Laced, Chequer, T-check, Bar, Barless, Spread, Pied, Shield-marked and Tail-marked.
| Color or pattern | EE | NPA | BDRG |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig”) | Standard (“Solids to include Black, Dun, Brown, Khaki, Red & Yellow”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig; Schwarz-schildig; Schwarz-schwänzig”) |
| White | Standard (“Einfarbig Weiß; Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig”) | Standard (“Self: White and Recessive Red only.; Tail Marks: In any of the above colors.; Shield Mark: The body color is pure White.”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Hellblau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) |
| Blue | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.; Grizzle ... shown as a separate class.”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Hellblau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) |
| Lavender | Standard (“Schwarz-schildig; Dun-schildig; Rot-schildig; Gelb-schildig; Aschfahl-schildig”) | Standard (“Spread Ash Red & Spread Ash Yellow include Lavender, Strawberry Laced and their Dilutes.”) | Standard (“Aschfahl-schildig”) |
| Silver | Standard (“Blaufahl-gehämmert-schildig; Blaufahl-schildig mit Binden; Blaufahl-schildig ohne Binden”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Blaufahl-gehämmert-schildig; Blaufahl-schildig mit Binden; Blaufahl-schildig ohne Binden”) |
| Brown | Standard (“Rotfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Rotfahl-schildig mit Binden; Gelbfahl-schildig mit Binden”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Braunfahl-schildig mit Binden; Braunfahl-gehämmert-schildig”) |
| Dun | Standard (“Blaufahl-gehämmert-schildig; Blaufahl-schildig mit Binden; Blaufahl-schildig ohne Binden”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Blaufahl-gehämmert-schildig; Dun-schildig; Blaufahl-schildig mit Binden; Blaufahl-schildig ohne Binden”) |
| Khaki | No ruling | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | No ruling |
| Red | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig; Schwarz-schildig; Dun-schildig; Rot-schildig; Gelb-schildig; Aschfahl-schildig”) | Standard (“Self: White and Recessive Red only.; Solids to include Black, Dun, Brown, Khaki, Red & Yellow; Tail Marks: In any of the above colors.”) | Standard (“Rot-schildig; Rot-gesäumt-schildig; Rot-schwänzig”) |
| Ash red | Standard (“Rotfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Rotfahl-schildig mit Binden; Gelbfahl-schildig mit Binden”) | Standard (“Spread Ash Red & Spread Ash Yellow; Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Rotfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Rotfahl-schildig mit Binden”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig; Schwarz-schildig; Dun-schildig; Rot-schildig; Gelb-schildig; Aschfahl-schildig”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Gelb-schildig; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Gelb-gesäumt-schildig; Gelbfahl-schildig mit Binden; Gelb-schwänzig”) |
| Cream | Standard (“Rotfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Rotfahl-schildig mit Binden; Gelbfahl-schildig mit Binden”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.; Spread Ash Red & Spread Ash Yellow”) | Standard (“Gelbfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Gelbfahl-schildig mit Binden”) |
| Dominant opal | No ruling | Alternate (“AOC: Any colors not listed above, i.e. Bar less, Opal, Andalusian, etc.”) | No ruling |
| Recessive opal | No ruling | Alternate (“AOC: Any colors not listed above, i.e. Bar less, Opal, Andalusian, etc.”) | No ruling |
| Patterns | |||
| Solid | Standard (“Einfarbig Weiß”) | Standard (“Solids to include Black, Dun, Brown, Khaki, Red & Yellow; Self: White and Recessive Red only.”) | Standard (“Einfarbig Weiß”) |
| Grizzle | No ruling | Standard (“Grizzle ... shown as a separate class.”) | No ruling |
| Laced | Standard (“Rot-gesäumt-schildig; Gelb-gesäumt-schildig”) | Standard (“Spread Ash Red & Spread Ash Yellow include Lavender, Strawberry Laced and their Dilutes.”) | Standard (“Rot-gesäumt-schildig; Gelb-gesäumt-schildig”) |
| Chequer | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Blau-gehämmert-schildig; Blaufahl-gehämmert-schildig; Rotfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Gelbfahl-gehämmert-schildig; Braunfahl-gehämmert-schildig”) |
| T-check | No ruling | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | No ruling |
| Bar | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) | Standard (“Patterns in Bar, Check & T-Pattern. Colors include blue, Silver, Brown, Khaki, Ash Red, and Ash Yellow.”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Hellblau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Rotfahl-schildig mit Binden”) |
| Barless | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) | Alternate (“AOC: Any colors not listed above, i.e. Bar less, Opal, Andalusian, etc.”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blaufahl-schildig ohne Binden”) |
| Spread | No ruling | Standard (“Spread Ash Red & Spread Ash Yellow; Spread Ash Red & Spread Ash Yellow include Lavender, Strawberry Laced and their Dilutes.”) | Standard (“Aschfahl-schildig”) |
| Pied | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig”) | Standard (“Tail Marks: In any of the above colors.; Shield Mark: The body color is pure White.”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Hellblau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Schwarz-schildig”) |
| Shield-marked | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) | Standard (“Shield Mark: The body color is pure White.”) | Standard (“Blau-schildig ohne Binden; Blau-schildig mit Binden; Blau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Hellblau-schildig mit weißen Binden; Blau-gehämmert-schildig”) |
| Tail-marked | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig”) | Standard (“Tail Marks: In any of the above colors.”) | Standard (“Schwarz-schwänzig; Blau-schwänzig; Rot-schwänzig; Gelb-schwänzig”) |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Dark brown | Standard (“Eyes should be large, bull eyed, bright and lively.”) |
| Color or pattern |
|---|
| Red |
What the rulings mean
- Standard
- Described by the club's breed standard.
- Alternate
- Registrable with the club but not described by its breed standard, such as an AKC alternate colour.
Color changes
How a Old German Owl's colors can change over its life.
Redchanges toBlue
Plumage · With age
Sources
Each ruling comes from the club's published breed standard or color list.
About the Old German Owl
The Old German Owl is a small, frilled exhibition pigeon from Germany with a placid nature and a gull-marked wing, well suited to a settled backyard loft.
The Old German Owl, known in Germany as the Altdeutsches Mövchen, is a small ornamental pigeon kept chiefly for showing and as company around the loft. It belongs to the owl pigeon family, a group named for the short, blunt beak and rounded head that give these birds a passing resemblance to a little owl. A frill of reversed feathering runs down the front of the chest, and most birds show a defined colour pattern across the wing shield set against an otherwise white body.
This counts among the older German colour-pigeon breeds and remains, like every domestic pigeon, a descendant of the rock pigeon (Columba livia). Adults stay light, seldom heavier than an average town pigeon, and they manage short flights around the loft without trouble. Fanciers keep the breed for its markings and its settled nature rather than for racing form or utility.
Keepers who work with the Old German Owl describe it as placid and even-tempered. It settles into loft life readily, puts up with handling once it knows the routine, and lacks the nervy, flighty streak that turns up in some other show breeds.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Origin | Germany |
| Size | Small |
| Lifespan | 8 to 12 years |
| Group / role | Frilled owl pigeon, kept for showing and company |
| Good with | Patient keepers, quiet aviaries, mixed loft flocks |
Who it suits
This breed suits keepers after a small, easy-care pigeon for a settled loft, whether on a suburban section or a small lifestyle block, rather than a racing or homing bird. Its placid nature makes it a fair option for someone new to pigeon keeping, provided they can manage daily care. It suits free-flying or competitive fanciers less well, since it has been bred for looks rather than performance.
History and origin
The Old German Owl took shape in Germany as an early owl pigeon variety, bred down from short-faced frilled birds kept across Europe for their markings.
The Old German Owl originated in Germany, where the name Altdeutsches Mövchen marks it as an early form within the wider Mövchen, or owl pigeon, family. The word "old" in the English name sets it apart from later, more heavily refined owl breeds developed further down the track.
Owl pigeons as a type go back to short-beaked frilled birds recorded across Europe over several centuries. Breeders selected for the chest frill, the rounded head, and the short beak rather than for any working purpose, and regional strains formed as fanciers in different districts fixed their own colour patterns and head shapes.
Within German pigeon-keeping tradition, local societies kept and standardised the Old German Owl, recording accepted wing markings, frill, and overall type. It became one among several distinct German colour-pigeon breeds, each holding its own recognised pattern. Like all domestic pigeons, the breed descends from the rock pigeon.
The variety remains chiefly a fancier's bird. In New Zealand it turns up at pigeon club shows and the odd A&P show rather than through general pet outlets, kept by hobby breeders who preserve its traditional look; it stays scarcer here than the more mainstream exhibition breeds.
Appearance and breed standard
The Old German Owl is a compact pigeon with a round head, short beak, a reversed chest frill, and a coloured wing pattern set against white body feathering.
The Old German Owl is small and neatly built, with a broad, rounded head and the short, blunt beak typical of owl pigeons. The eyes sit to the side of the head and are usually dark. Its standout feature is the frill, a strip of feathers that grows in reverse down the front of the chest. The body is short and carried fairly upright, with the wings held close along the back.
| Trait | Standard |
|---|---|
| Height | Around 24 to 28 cm in body length |
| Weight | About 250 to 320 g |
| Coat | Smooth body feathering with a reversed frill on the chest |
| Colours | White body with a marked coloured wing shield |
| Eyes | Dark, set to the sides of a round head |
Coat and colours
The classic pattern is a white bird with colour confined mainly to the wing shield, often called the gull or shield marking. Wing colour turns up in several shades, and the breed recognises both barred and laced wing patterns. Plumage stays firm and close over the body, while the chest frill stands out as a distinct ruffled line. Clean white areas should look crisp, with the coloured shield well defined against the white ground.
Temperament and behaviour
The Old German Owl is placid and even-tempered, settles well to handling and loft life, and gets on peacefully with other pigeons sharing the space.
The Old German Owl carries a quiet, steady temperament. It ranks among the calmer ornamental pigeons and does not spook easily when approached, which keeps routine loft work simple. Birds handled gently from a young age grow tame and put up with being lifted and checked over.
Around people the breed stays docile and non-aggressive. It will not chase after attention the way a tame parrot might, but it takes a familiar keeper in its stride without fuss. Towards strangers it stays wary at first and settles once a routine beds in.
With other pigeons the breed mixes well and gets on in a shared loft. Cocks may posture during the breeding season, but real fighting is rare. The Old German Owl mostly ignores other household pets, and it pays to keep cats and dogs away from the loft rather than expect the pigeon to cope with them.
| Trait | Rating |
|---|---|
| Affection | 3 |
| Energy | 2 |
| Trainability | 3 |
| Vocalness | 2 |
| Shedding | 3 |
Care and grooming
Keeping an Old German Owl means a clean, dry loft, food and water daily, and routine health checks; grooming needs are light beyond a regular bath.
Day-to-day care comes down to a clean loft, fresh food and water, and keeping an eye on the birds. The breed holds up well for its size, but the white plumage and chest frill show dirt fast, so clean perches and dry bedding matter as much for appearance as for health.
Grooming
- Set out a shallow bath two or three times a week so birds can clean their own feathers
- Keep nest boxes and perches clean to protect the white plumage and frill
- Check nails during handling and trim them when they grow too long
- Look over the vent and feet each time you handle a bird
Exercise
- Give birds room to move daily within a roomy loft or aviary flight
- Avoid crowding so birds can stretch out and manage short flights
- Set perches at different heights to keep birds active
Environment
House the breed in a loft that stays dry, free of draughts, and well ventilated. Pigeons cope with cold better than with damp, and New Zealand's changeable, often damp weather makes good drainage and airflow more important than extra heating. Keep the loft secure against rats, stoats, and birds of prey, and give each pair enough room to stay free of stress.
Nutrition and feeding
The Old German Owl does well on a grain-based pigeon mix with grit and clean water, fed in set amounts once or twice daily to keep this small breed trim.
A balanced pigeon seed and grain mix makes up the bulk of the diet. Good mixes combine cereals such as wheat, sorghum, and maize with legumes like peas and vetch for protein. Since this is a small breed, measure portions out to stop birds putting on excess weight. Birds need constant access to clean water and grit, since pigeons rely on grit to break down grain in the gizzard.
| Life stage | Amount per day | Meals |
|---|---|---|
| Adult, maintenance | About 25 to 35 g of grain mix | 1 to 2 |
| Breeding pair | Increased ration with extra protein | 2 |
| Growing young | Fed by parents on crop milk, then moved onto a weaning mix | Free access at nest |
Treats and supplements
Small amounts of greens and a pinch of fresh seed work well as treats. A mineral or pick stone, plus a calcium source such as crushed oyster shell, supports bone and eggshell formation, especially in breeding hens. Steer clear of sudden diet changes, which can upset digestion.
Health and common conditions
The Old German Owl is a hardy bird living about 8 to 12 years, though canker, respiratory infection, coccidiosis, and external parasites are the usual risks.
The Old German Owl is a tough little pigeon once kept in clean, dry conditions. A typical lifespan runs from 8 to 12 years. Most health issues in the breed are the standard pigeon ailments rather than anything specific to the type, and sound loft hygiene heads off most of them.
| Condition | Signs | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Canker (trichomoniasis) | Yellow lesions in the throat, poor eating | Spreads through water and feeding young |
| Respiratory infection | Nasal discharge, sneezing, laboured breathing | Worsened by damp, dusty, or crowded lofts |
| Coccidiosis | Loose droppings, weight loss, low energy | Linked to dirty, wet floors |
| External parasites | Feather damage, restlessness, mites or lice | Check during routine handling |
Preventive care
- Keep the loft dry, well ventilated, and clear of built-up droppings
- Provide clean water every day and wash out drinkers often
- Quarantine new or returning birds before mixing them into the loft
- Worm birds and treat for external parasites on a regular schedule
- Stay current with vaccination where local advice recommends it
Training and handling
The Old German Owl handles well with calm, consistent routines, learning to settle, trust its keeper, and take to loft and show routines through patience.
This is a breed kept for showing and company rather than flying or homing, so training aims at tameness and show readiness rather than performance. Its calm temperament works in the keeper's favour, and most birds pick up loft routines quickly. Show birds also benefit from time spent practising standing calmly in a judging cage.
Basics
- Approach the loft quietly and move slowly so birds stay settled
- Feed at the same times each day to build a routine the birds can predict
- Offer food from the hand to build trust and tameness
- Practise gentle lifting and short holds so birds get used to handling
- For show birds, get them used to a training cage well before exhibitions
Habitat and housing
The Old German Owl needs a dry, draught-free, predator-proof loft with perches, nest boxes, and an attached flight, sized so each pair has room to spare.
A pigeon loft is the standard home for this breed. It should stay dry inside, get steady airflow without draughts at perch level, and keep rats, mice, and other predators locked out. Each pair needs its own nest box and perch, and an attached aviary flight lets birds exercise in daylight and in the weather.
| Parameter | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Loft floor space | About 0.3 to 0.5 m per bird minimum |
| Ventilation | Steady airflow without draughts on the birds |
| Perches | One individual perch or box per bird |
| Nest boxes | One enclosed box per breeding pair |
| Flight / aviary | Wire-enclosed run attached to the loft |
| Predator protection | Solid construction, secure mesh, rodent-proofing |
Setup checklist
- A dry, raised, or sealed floor that is easy to hose out
- Vents set high to move air without chilling perched birds
- Individual perches and one nest box per pair
- A clean drinker, feeder, grit pot, and bath pan
- Secure mesh over windows and flight openings
Hatching and rearing young
Old German Owl eggs are usually incubated by both parents for around 17 to 19 days, after which the pair feeds squabs on crop milk through to weaning.
Pigeons generally raise their own young, and the Old German Owl follows suit. A hen typically lays two eggs per clutch, and both parents share incubation, swapping turns on the nest. Natural brooding is the norm, though breeders sometimes bring in foster pairs or an incubator if a pair fails or extra young are wanted. The figures below cover both natural and artificial incubation.
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Temperature | About 37.5 C in an incubator |
| Humidity | Around 55 to 60 percent, raised near hatch |
| Days | Around 17 to 19 days |
| Turning | Several times a day until the final days |
Hatching steps
- Collect a clutch of two eggs and let the parents settle in to incubate
- Keep the nest area calm, dry, and at a steady temperature
- Candle the eggs after about a week to check on development
- Stop turning eggs in the last two to three days before hatching
- Leave hatched squabs with the parents to take crop milk
- Wean young onto a small grain mix at around four weeks old
Frequently asked questions
Common questions on the Old German Owl cover size, temperament, care level, lifespan, how it suits beginners, and how easy the breed is to track down.
How big do Old German Owl pigeons get?
It is a small breed, around 24 to 28 cm in body length and about 250 to 320 g, lighter and more compact than an average town pigeon.
What is its temperament like?
The breed is gentle, calm, and docile. It settles to handling once tame and lives peacefully alongside other pigeons in a shared loft.
Is it hard to care for?
Care sits at a moderate level. The bird itself is hardy, but it needs a clean, dry loft, food and water daily, and routine health checks to stay well and keep its white plumage looking clean.
How long does an Old German Owl live?
Given good housing and diet, a typical lifespan runs from 8 to 12 years.
Is it a good pigeon for beginners?
Yes, for anyone who can commit to daily loft care. Its calm nature makes it forgiving to keep, though it suits fanciers after a bird for showing rather than flying or homing.
Are Old German Owls easy to find in New Zealand?
Not especially. They are kept mainly by hobby fanciers and shown at pigeon club exhibitions, and New Zealand's strict MPI biosecurity rules make importing birds from overseas difficult, so most local stock is bred here rather than brought in. Pigeon clubs and specialist breeders are a better starting point than general pet shops.