English Lop

The English Lop ranks among the oldest fancy rabbit breeds, and it was the first lop-eared breed anyone deliberately set out to create. It's a substantial animal: an adult typically weighs 4 to 5 kg (roughly 9 to 11 lb). What sets the breed apart, though, is the ears. They hang well past the jaw, and a good pair can span 53 cm (21 in) or more from tip to tip.

Temperament-wise, the English Lop is an easy sort. It settles in one spot without much fuss, puts up with handling, and grows attached to whoever gives it regular attention. That same laid-back streak means it won't bolt for the nearest gap in the fence, but it still needs room to move about every day.

Given the size, the ears, and the mellow nature, this is a rabbit for someone who can provide proper space and steady, gentle care. Ears that drag along the ground want watching, and a rabbit this size needs more than a small hutch.

Who it suits

The English Lop fits a household that can offer a roomy enclosure, time out of the pen every day, and a keeper willing to check those long ears for tears or dirt. Its docile nature suits someone after a rabbit to sit with rather than one to chase round the garden. A home with small, boisterous children isn't the best match, given the size of the animal and the care its ears need.

The breed took shape in England in the early nineteenth century. Breeders picked out rabbits with longer, lower ears generation after generation, and what emerged was the first lop breed built on purpose rather than by chance. That's why it's often called the grandfather of the lop rabbits.

Interest in the breed grew during the Victorian era, when keeping rabbits for show became a popular pastime across Britain and Ireland. Ear length was the main thing judges looked for, and the animals with the longest, widest ears drew the biggest crowds at exhibitions. Some old accounts mention keepers using warmth and careful handling to try to coax extra growth from young ears.

From England the breed travelled outward as rabbit fancying spread, reaching Ireland along with the rest of the fancy. Its long ears fed into other lop breeds later on, and most lop-eared rabbits today trace a line back to this early English stock.

These days the English Lop is kept for showing and companionship rather than for meat or fibre. It's rarer than the smaller lops, valued more for its history and its striking look than for practical output.

There's no mistaking an English Lop once you've seen the ears. They hang loose on either side of the head, drop below the jaw, and can trail on the ground as the rabbit moves. A span of 53 cm (21 in) or more, measured tip to tip across the head, is typical of a good show specimen, and length is what the breed is judged on above all else.

The body is large and a touch long, carried on a frame that's fairly slender for the animal's overall size. The head is broad, the muzzle bold and rounded. The coat is short and close-lying, which keeps grooming fairly light work next to the long-haired breeds.

Coat and colours

The English Lop turns up in a good range of colours and patterns: solid shades like black, blue, and fawn, broken coats that pair white with another colour, plus agouti and shaded varieties. The short fur asks little of the keeper beyond regular brushing; most of the grooming effort goes on keeping those long ears clean rather than managing coat length.

The English Lop has a name as one of the most easy-going rabbit breeds going. It moves at its own pace, picks a spot and stays there, and takes handling without a great deal of complaint. Plenty of individuals like the attention and will settle on a lap, or beside their person, once trust is built up.

Around family the breed is warm and friendly, and it can come round to strangers given a bit of time, though like most rabbits it prefers things quiet rather than sudden movement or a raised voice. It can share space with a compatible rabbit companion, provided introductions are gradual and supervised. Cats and dogs are manageable too, since the Lop's size works in its favour, but someone should still keep an eye on things.

The breed suits older children who've been shown the right way to hold a rabbit. Its long ears and weight mean a careless lift can hurt the animal, so a younger child should always have supervision.

Grooming

• Brush the short coat once a week, and oftener during a moult, to shift loose fur.
• Check the long ears every day for tears, dirt, or sores, since they trail along and pick things up.
• Wipe inside the ears gently if wax or grime builds up, using a method your vet has signed off on.
• Trim the nails every few weeks; a rabbit this size can grow them long fast.
• Check underneath and around the rear for soiling, particularly in warm spells.

Exercise

• Allow at least a few hours out of the pen each day in a space that's been rabbit-proofed properly.
• Give room enough to hop, stretch out, and have a nose round, which keeps weight and boredom down.
• Set up tunnels and a few simple toys for gentle activity, in keeping with the breed's relaxed pace.

Environment

The English Lop wants a large enclosure with a solid, smooth floor that won't snag the ears. Keep it clean and dry, away from draughts and direct sun; given the Irish climate, that usually means somewhere sheltered rather than an exposed spot in the garden. Moderate temperatures suit the breed best, and it copes badly with heat. A flat resting surface helps keep the ears out of harm's way.

Hay forms the backbone of an English Lop's diet and should be there for the taking around the clock. Grass hays such as timothy or orchard grass supply the fibre that keeps digestion moving and wears down teeth that never stop growing. A measured helping of plain pellets and a daily share of fresh leafy greens fill out the rest of the diet. Fresh water needs to be on hand at all times.

Treats and supplements

Keep treats small and occasional. A slice of carrot, a sprig of herbs, or a small bit of apple with the seeds removed all work well as an occasional reward. A rabbit eating a balanced hay-and-greens diet usually needs no extra supplements, so check with a vet before adding anything. Go easy on sugary fruit, since a breed this size can pile on weight if it's overfed.

Given good care, an English Lop generally lives 5 to 7 years. Most health worries trace back to the long ears and the large frame. Ears that trail the ground scrape and tear easily, and they pick up dirt, which raises the chance of infection. As with any rabbit, dental disease can set in if the teeth wear unevenly, and the breed feels the heat more than most, since that broad ear surface plays a part in regulating body temperature.

Preventive care

• Book routine checkups with a vet who knows rabbits.
• Check the ears every day and clean them as advised.
• Keep hay unlimited to support the teeth and digestion.
• Keep the housing cool and shaded once the weather turns warm.
• Think about spaying or neutering, which can cut down on some health and behaviour problems.

Housing for an English Lop has to account for its size and its ears together. The enclosure wants to be large enough for the rabbit to stretch out fully and take several hops, with a floor that's solid and smooth so the ears don't catch. Wire flooring won't do, since it can injure feet and ears alike. Keep the space clean and dry, change the bedding regularly, and keep the litter area fresh.

Indoor housing suits the breed well, since it allows closer control of temperature and keeps the ears off rough outdoor ground. If the rabbit is kept outdoors, given how changeable Irish weather can be, it needs solid, weatherproof shelter along with shade and protection from heat, cold, and predators.

Setup checklist

• A large enclosure with a solid floor.
• A litter tray filled with rabbit-safe litter.
• Constant access to hay and a heavy bowl or bottle for water.
• A flat resting mat to protect the ears.
• A shaded spot out of the draught.
• A rabbit-proofed run for exercise every day.

English Lops reach sexual maturity at several months old, and because they're a large breed, breeders often wait a little longer before pairing them than they would with a smaller rabbit, to give the body time to finish growing. Gestation runs about 31 days. Before the kits arrive the doe builds a nest from bedding and her own fur, and the kits themselves are born furless with their eyes shut.

Litters usually run to somewhere between 5 and 8 kits. The doe nurses them, their eyes open at around 10 days, and they start sampling solid food over the following weeks. Weaning is usually complete by about 6 to 8 weeks. Given the breed's size, breeders keep a close eye on the doe's condition and provide a roomy, clean nest box. Handle the young gently, and take particular care with the developing ears.