Oriental Frill
The Oriental Frill is an elegant ornamental pigeon famed for its ornate chest frills and feathered feet, with a calm and gentle disposition.
- Size
- Small
- Lifespan
- 8–12 years
- Origin
- Turkey
- Temperament
- Gentle
- Standard colors
- Black, White and Blue and 10 more
Characteristics
Oriental Frill colors and patterns
What each club's breed standard says about every Oriental Frill color and pattern. Point at a ruling to see the club's own wording.
Breed standards describe the Oriental Frill in Black, White, Blue, Lavender, Silver, Brown, Dun, Khaki, Red, Ash red, Yellow, Cream and Sulphur. Standard patterns: Solid, Laced, Spangled, Chequer, Bar, Pied and Shield-marked.
| Color or pattern | NPA | BDRG |
|---|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“BLACK & DUN LACED; BLUETTES; BLACK, DUN, RED, & YELLOW LACED; DOMINOES; BLUE BAR; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Schwarz-gesäumt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen; Satinetten Blau mit weißen Binden (Bluette); Vizor Blau mit weißen Binden”) |
| White | Standard (“SATINETTE BLUE LACED; BRUNETTES; SULPHURETTES; BLUETTES; SILVERETTES; BLACK, DUN, RED, & YELLOW LACED; VIZORS; DOMINOES; TURBITEENS; BLUE LACED”) | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen; Satinetten Rot mit weißen Binden; Vizor Rot mit weißen Binden”) |
| Blue | Standard (“BLUE LACED; BLUE BAR; SATINETTE BLUE LACED; BLUETTES; DOMINOES; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Blau mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Blau-geschuppt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Lavender | Standard (“LAVENDER”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Lavendel-gesäumt”) |
| Silver | Standard (“SILVER LACED; SULFUR LACED; SILVER BAR; SILVERETTES; DOMINOES; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Blaufahl mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Blaufahl-geschuppt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Brown | Standard (“BROWN LACED; brown white barred; BRUNETTES”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Braunfahl mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Braunfahl-geschuppt; Blondinetten Braun-gesäumt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Dun | Standard (“SILVERETTES; BLACK, DUN, RED, & YELLOW LACED; DOMINOES; BLACK & DUN LACED; SILVER BAR; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Dun-gesäumt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen; Satinetten Blaufahl mit weißen Binden (Silverette); Vizor Blaufahl mit weißen Binden”) |
| Khaki | Standard (“khaki laced tail; khaki white barred”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Khakifahl mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Khakifahl-geschuppt; Blondinetten Khaki-gesäumt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Red | Standard (“RED LACED; BLACK, DUN, RED, & YELLOW LACED; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Rot mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Rot-geschuppt; Blondinetten Rot-gesäumt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Ash red | No ruling | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“YELLOW LACED; BLACK, DUN, RED, & YELLOW LACED; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Gelb mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Gelb-geschuppt; Blondinetten Gelb-gesäumt; Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Cream | No ruling | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Sulphur | Standard (“SULPHURETTES; SULFUR LACED”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Sulfur-geschuppt (Sulfurette); Satinetten Sulfur-geschuppt; Vizor Sulfur-geschuppt”) |
| Patterns | ||
| Solid | Standard (“DOMINOES; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Laced | Standard (“BLUE LACED; SILVER LACED; RED LACED; YELLOW LACED; BROWN LACED; SULFUR LACED; BLACK & DUN LACED; LAVENDER; khaki laced tail; SATINETTE BLUE LACED”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Schwarz-gesäumt; Blondinetten Dun-gesäumt; Blondinetten Braun-gesäumt; Blondinetten Khaki-gesäumt; Blondinetten Rot-gesäumt”) |
| Spangled | No ruling | Standard (“Blondinetten Blau-geschuppt; Blondinetten Blaufahl-geschuppt; Blondinetten Braunfahl-geschuppt; Blondinetten Khakifahl-geschuppt”) |
| Chequer | Standard (“DOMINOES; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen”) |
| Bar | Standard (“SILVER BAR; BLUE BAR; khaki white barred; brown white barred; BLUETTES; SILVERETTES; VIZORS; DOMINOES; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Blondinetten Rot mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Gelb mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Blau mit weißen Binden; Blondinetten Blaufahl mit weißen Binden”) |
| Pied | Standard (“SATINETTE BLUE LACED; BRUNETTES; SULPHURETTES; BLUETTES; SILVERETTES; BLACK, DUN, RED, & YELLOW LACED; VIZORS; DOMINOES; TURBITEENS”) | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen; Dominomövchen; Satinetten Rot mit weißen Binden; Vizor Rot mit weißen Binden”) |
| Shield-marked | Standard (“TURBITEENS”) | No ruling |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Dark brown | Standard (“very dark brown; dark brown, ruby or orange”) |
| Red | Standard (“eye red”) |
| Ruby | Standard (“dark brown, ruby or orange”) |
| Orange | Standard (“dark brown, ruby or orange”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“yellow gravel”) |
| Patterns | |
| Odd-eyed | Fault (“spilt eye”) |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“black or as dark as possible; upper mandible black in blacks and black checkers, horn color in others, lower mandible white”) |
| White | Standard (“upper mandible black in blacks and black checkers, horn color in others, lower mandible white”) |
| Horn | Standard (“horn color; upper mandible black in blacks and black checkers, horn color in others, lower mandible white”) |
| Pink | Standard (“pale flesh”) |
| Color or pattern | NPA |
|---|---|
| Red | Standard (“bright red and free from feathers”) |
Blondinette
Domino
| Color or pattern | BDRG |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| White | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Blue | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Silver | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Brown | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Dun | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Khaki | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Red | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Ash red | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Cream | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Patterns | |
| Solid | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Chequer | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Bar | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
| Pied | Standard (“Dominomövchen”) |
Satinette
Turbiteen
| Color or pattern | BDRG |
|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| White | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Blue | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Silver | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Brown | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Dun | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Khaki | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Red | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Ash red | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Yellow | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Cream | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Patterns | |
| Solid | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Chequer | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Bar | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
| Pied | Standard (“Turbiteenmövchen”) |
What the rulings mean
- Standard
- Described by the club's breed standard.
- Fault
- Named by the club's breed standard as a fault: the animal can be shown but is penalised.
Color changes
How a Oriental Frill's colors can change over its life.
Redchanges toBlue
Plumage · With age
Sources
Each ruling comes from the club's published breed standard or color list.
About the Oriental Frill
The Oriental Frill is a small ornamental pigeon bred in Turkey, prized for its curled chest frill and feathered feet, and suited to calm, patient keepers rather than racing lofts.
The Oriental Frill is a fancy pigeon kept for showing and ornament, not for racing or the table. It is a small, stout bird with a short, owl-like head, and two features set it apart from every other loft bird: a frill of curled feathers running down the chest and a heavy covering of feathers over the feet, known as muffs. Between the two, it is one of the most decorative pigeons any fancier is likely to keep.
Temperament is where this breed really earns its keep. Owners find Oriental Frills affectionate, gentle, calm and biddable, easy enough to manage in a loft and well able to tolerate handling once they know a person. They are not strong on the wing, so they are kept in an aviary or loft rather than let out to fly free.
Given good care, an Oriental Frill will generally see 8 to 12 years. Being an ornamental breed, it needs steady attention paid to its frill and foot feathering, so it suits an owner who does not mind regular grooming and who can keep a loft clean and dry.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Origin | Turkey |
| Size | Small |
| Lifespan | 8 to 12 years |
| Group / role | Fancy and ornamental pigeon, a show breed |
| Good with | Calm households and patient hobby keepers; good with handling |
Who it suits
This breed suits a keeper who wants a calm, decorative pigeon and does not mind the upkeep that its frill and foot feathering demand. It suits show fanciers well, and anyone who would rather have a settled loft bird than an active flier. It is not the bird for someone wanting a free flying or homing pigeon, nor for a loft that cannot be kept clean and dry enough to protect the foot muffs.
Oriental Frill history and origin
The Oriental Frill developed in Turkey and the old Ottoman lands, part of a long tradition of frilled, feather-footed pigeons later refined by European fanciers.
The Oriental Frill has its roots in Turkey and the wider territory once held by the Ottoman Empire. Decorative pigeons with a curled chest frill and feathered feet were kept there for generations, and the Oriental Frill belongs to that broad family of frilled fancy pigeons.
Birds of this type made their way to western Europe through trade routes and diplomatic contact with Ottoman lands. Once there, European fanciers took a shine to the frilled, feather-footed pigeons and set about breeding for the traits now tied to the name: the short head, the chest frill, and the heavy foot muffs.
The type was gradually fixed within the show fancy, with colour patterns and feather structure settled through selective breeding over many generations. Because the Oriental Frill is so often grouped with related frilled breeds sharing the same broad background, pinning down exact dates for its early development is not straightforward.
These days the Oriental Frill is kept chiefly as an exhibition and ornamental breed among pigeon fanciers. It was never much of a flying or working bird, and its standing has always come down to looks and a gentle nature rather than any working ability.
Oriental Frill appearance and breed standard
The Oriental Frill is a small, stout pigeon with a short, owl-like head, a curled chest frill, and heavily feathered feet that give the breed its distinctive look.
The Oriental Frill is a compact, rounded pigeon with a short, broad head and a short beak giving it a distinctly owl-like face. The neck is short, and the body sits low and stout. Two features stand out above all else: the frill, a band of curled feathers running down the front of the chest, and the muffs, the long feathers covering the feet and lower legs.
Taken together, the impression is of a small, tidy, decorative bird that carries itself calmly and upright rather than looking built for speed.
| Feature | Standard |
|---|---|
| Height | Small in stature, with a low, rounded carriage |
| Weight | Light, as expected of a small fancy pigeon |
| Coat | Smooth body feathering, a curled chest frill, and heavily feathered feet (muffs) |
| Colours | Several recognised colours and markings, including shield and laced patterns |
| Eyes | Bright and dark, set well in the short, broad head |
Coat and colours
The chest frill and the feathered feet are what mark this breed out. The frill wants to be even and well curled, and the foot muffs full and clean. Body colour and markings vary across the recognised varieties, which can run to patterned shields on the wings and laced feather edges. Since the foot feathering trails close to the ground, keeping its colour and condition good comes down largely to a dry, clean loft, particularly through a wet Irish winter.
Oriental Frill temperament and behaviour
The Oriental Frill is calm, gentle and biddable, tolerant of handling, and far better suited to a quiet loft than to life on the wing.
The Oriental Frill has a mild, even temperament. Fanciers describe the breed as affectionate, gentle, calm and docile. The birds are not flighty, and they tend to stay settled in a loft they know, which makes them a good deal easier to handle than the more active flying breeds.
Handled gently from a young age, an Oriental Frill will generally accept being held and looked over without fuss, which counts for a good deal in a show bird. The breed gets on well with other pigeons too, and pairs settle into a shared loft easily enough. They are neither strong nor eager fliers, so they are kept in an aviary or loft rather than let out to fly free.
Like most pigeons, the Oriental Frill is a sociable bird and does best with at least one companion. Left on its own without company, a pigeon can turn withdrawn.
| Trait | Rating |
|---|---|
| Affection | 4 |
| Energy | 2 |
| Trainability | 3 |
| Vocalness | 2 |
| Shedding (moult) | 3 |
Oriental Frill care and grooming
Caring for an Oriental Frill comes down to a clean, dry loft and regular attention to the chest frill and feathered feet, with room to move rather than free flight.
Grooming
- Check the chest frill regularly and keep it clear of food, droppings and matting.
- Inspect the foot muffs often, and trim or clean off any feathers that have picked up dirt or damp.
- Put out shallow bathing water once or twice a week so the bird can keep its feathers in order.
- Keep an eye on the toes and nails under the foot feathering, since the muffs can hide them well.
- Handle the bird gently while grooming so it stays calm and tame.
Exercise
- Give the bird a roomy aviary or loft section where it can move about, perch and stretch its wings.
- Fit perches at a few different heights and leave landing space, rather than counting on free flight.
- Allow some time off the perch each day within a secure flight space.
Environment
The Oriental Frill needs a dry, well ventilated loft free of draughts. Dry flooring matters a great deal, since those feathered feet pick up damp and dirt in no time. Keep the loft clean, guard the birds against predators, and steer clear of muddy or wet patches on the floor that would ruin the muffs.
Oriental Frill diet and feeding
Oriental Frills do well on a standard pigeon diet of mixed grains and seeds with grit and clean water, with the amount judged by the bird's size and activity.
The Oriental Frill does well on an ordinary pigeon diet built around a mixed grain and seed blend. A good mix brings together cereal grains and legumes such as wheat, maize, peas and small seeds, balanced so the bird gets enough protein and energy without piling on weight. Clean, fresh water should be available at all times, along with grit to aid digestion and a source of minerals.
| Life stage | Amount per day | Meals |
|---|---|---|
| Squab (in the nest) | Fed crop milk, then soft grain, by the parents | Parent fed |
| Young / weaning | Free access to a starter grain mix | 2 feeds |
| Adult (maintenance) | About 25 to 35 g of mixed grain | 1 to 2 feeds |
| Breeding pair | More grain, plus extra protein and minerals | 2 feeds |
Treats and supplements
Small amounts of leafy greens and the odd safe seed treat are fine now and again, but the grain mix should stay the mainstay of the diet. Offer grit, crushed oyster shell or a mineral block for calcium, and add a vitamin or mineral supplement during breeding and moulting if the diet alone is not quite enough. Keep treats to a minimum so the bird holds a healthy weight.
Oriental Frill health and common ailments
The Oriental Frill is generally hardy and lives about 8 to 12 years, with most problems tied to its feathered feet plus the usual pigeon parasites and infections.
Given good husbandry, the Oriental Frill is a hardy little pigeon that typically reaches 8 to 12 years of age. Its one particular weak spot is the feathered feet, which gather dirt and damp easily and can lead to foot and skin trouble if the loft is not kept dry. Outside of that, it is prone to the same ailments as any pigeon in any loft.
| Condition | Signs | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Foot and muff problems | Dirty, matted foot feathers, sores, lameness | Linked to damp or dirty flooring; keep the loft dry |
| Canker (trichomoniasis) | Yellow lesions in the mouth or throat, poor feeding | Common in pigeons; treatable if caught early |
| Coccidiosis | Diarrhoea, weight loss, low energy | Parasite of the gut; managed with hygiene and treatment |
| Worms | Weight loss, poor condition | Routine worming as advised by a vet |
| Respiratory infection | Nasal discharge, laboured breathing, sneezing | Improve ventilation; treat as advised |
| External parasites (lice/mites) | Feather damage, scratching, restlessness | Heavy feathering can hide them, so check regularly |
Preventive care
- Keep the loft clean, dry and well ventilated.
- Check feet and muffs regularly for dirt and sores.
- Provide fresh water, clean grain and grit every day.
- Quarantine any new or returning bird before mixing it in with the loft.
- Keep to a routine worming and parasite programme agreed with a vet.
- Stay up to date on vaccinations where pigeon paramyxovirus or similar diseases are a risk locally.
Training and handling an Oriental Frill
Oriental Frills are not flying or homing birds, so training is about gentle taming, calm handling and getting the bird ready for the show pen.
As the Oriental Frill is an ornamental loft breed and no great flier, training here means taming and getting the bird show ready rather than anything to do with racing or homing. The breed's calm, docile nature makes this a straightforward job. What you are after is a bird that stays relaxed when handled, sits steady for inspection, and takes to a show pen without fuss.
Basics
- Spend a quiet spell near the loft each day so the birds get used to you being about.
- Offer favoured grain by hand to build up trust.
- Practise gentle, short spells of handling, supporting the body and the feathered feet.
- Bring in a show pen or cage gradually so the bird stays calm once penned.
- Keep sessions short and frequent rather than long and stressful.
- Always finish on a calm note and put the bird back in its loft.
Oriental Frill habitat and housing
Oriental Frills need a clean, dry, predator-proof loft or aviary with dry flooring to protect the feathered feet, plus safe perching and nesting space.
The Oriental Frill is kept in a loft or aviary rather than flown free. The first priority is a dry, well ventilated, secure space, since damp and dirt do real damage to the foot feathering. Give the birds enough room to move about and perch in comfort, along with nest boxes for breeding pairs and shelter from predators and the weather.
| Parameter | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Housing type | Enclosed loft or covered aviary |
| Flooring | Dry, smooth or well littered, kept clean to protect the muffs |
| Ventilation | Good airflow without draughts at perch height |
| Perches | Several at varied heights with landing space |
| Nesting | Nest boxes or bowls for breeding pairs |
| Security | Predator-proof mesh and a closable door |
Setup checklist
- Dry, clean flooring suited to feathered feet.
- Good ventilation without any cold draughts.
- Perches and landing boards set at several heights.
- Nest boxes ready for pairs come breeding season.
- Fresh water and a shallow bath.
- Grit and a mineral source to hand.
- Predator-proof construction and doors that shut securely.
Oriental Frill hatching and incubation
Oriental Frill eggs hatch in about 17 to 19 days, usually minded by both parents, with squabs fed crop milk before weaning at around four weeks.
Like other pigeons, the Oriental Frill usually lays two eggs to the clutch, and both cock and hen share the incubating. Eggs take roughly 17 to 19 days to hatch. The newly hatched squabs are fed crop milk by both parents for the first few days, then moved gradually onto softened grain as they grow. Most keepers are happy to let the parents incubate and rear the young themselves, pigeons being reliable parents, though an incubator can be used if the need arises.
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Temperature | About 37.5 C in an incubator (parents otherwise) |
| Humidity | Around 55 to 60 percent rising near hatch |
| Days | About 17 to 19 days |
| Turning | Several times a day if artificially incubated, though parents turn the eggs naturally |
Hatching steps
- Let a settled pair get on with incubating their clutch of two eggs.
- Keep the loft quiet, dry and at a steady temperature.
- Check the eggs around the halfway point of incubation to see how they are developing.
- Leave the nest well alone as hatching draws near.
- Let the parents feed crop milk to the squabs once they hatch.
- Give the parents extra protein and minerals while they are rearing the young.
- Wean the young onto a grain mix at about four weeks old.
Frequently asked questions about the Oriental Frill
Common questions about the Oriental Frill cover its size, temperament, upkeep, lifespan, suitability and where to find one.
How big is an Oriental Frill pigeon?
It is a small fancy pigeon, short and stout with a rounded body, an owl-like head, and heavily feathered feet.
What is the Oriental Frill's temperament like?
The breed is affectionate, gentle, calm and docile. It takes well to handling and gets on peaceably with other pigeons.
Is the Oriental Frill hard to keep?
Not especially. Keep the loft clean and dry and stay on top of the chest frill and feathered feet, which pick up dirt easily enough, and the bird will do grand.
How long does an Oriental Frill live?
With good care, it usually lives about 8 to 12 years.
Can it fly free or home like a racing pigeon?
No. It is an ornamental show breed and a poor flier, so it is kept in a loft or aviary rather than let fly free.
Who is the Oriental Frill best suited to?
It suits calm households and patient hobby keepers who enjoy show pigeons and do not mind the upkeep of the foot feathering and frill.
Where can I get an Oriental Frill in Ireland?
They can be sourced through pigeon fanciers, breed clubs and exhibition shows. Buy from a reputable breeder who keeps a clean, dry loft.