Peruvian

The Peruvian is a long-haired breed of domestic guinea pig, or cavy (Cavia porcellus). It is known above all for a fine, silky coat that never stops growing and, on a show animal, can trail well past the body right down to the floor. The hair grows forward over the head as well as back over the rump, so a fully coated Peruvian can be hard to tell front from back at a glance.

In temperament the breed is friendly, gentle, calm, and easy-going. Peruvians generally take handling in their stride, which is a good part of why they suit both the pet trade and the show bench. A grown boar or sow is a medium-sized rodent, typically 700 to 1,200 grams, with sows usually the lighter of the two.

The long coat is the breed's calling card and its main upkeep. Pet keepers often clip the hair short for comfort and cleanliness, while show keepers keep it at full length with daily grooming and wrapping. Either way, a Peruvian asks for more coat care than a short-haired cavy such as the American.

Who it suits

The Peruvian suits an owner who can commit to regular, often daily, grooming. Anyone who wants a calm companion and does not mind keeping the coat clean or trimmed will get on well with the breed. It suits low-maintenance households less, and it is not for a home that cannot keep at least one companion cavy, since guinea pigs are herd animals by nature and should never be kept on their own.

The domestic guinea pig, Cavia porcellus, was domesticated in the Andean region of South America, in what is now Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, and Colombia. Archaeological evidence points to domestication several thousand years ago, when Andean peoples raised the animals for food and used them in ritual and folk medicine. They remain a traditional food animal in parts of the Andes today, where they are known as cuy.

Guinea pigs reached Europe in the sixteenth century through Spanish and Dutch traders, after which they were kept as curiosities and bred for looks rather than for the pot. Fanciers gradually developed distinct coat types over the generations that followed, long-haired forms among them.

The Peruvian is one of the oldest long-haired varieties recognised in the cavy fancy. It takes its name from the country tied to the species' origin, though the long coat itself was fixed through European, and later international, breeding rather than turning up in wild or working animals. The Silkie, also called the Sheltie, and the curly-coated Texel came along later as related long-haired breeds.

Guinea pig and cavy clubs around the world, Ireland included, recognise the Peruvian today, and it is a regular entrant in the long-haired classes at shows.

The Peruvian has the compact, rounded body typical of a guinea pig, though its outline is entirely given over to the coat. The hair is long, straight, and fine, growing out from a centre parting along the back and falling to either side. Two rosettes on the rump push the coat forward, so the longest hair sweeps over the face and head, often hiding the eyes altogether. In full show coat the hair can reach the ground and run longer than the body itself.

Coat and colours

The coat comes in the same spread of colours and patterns found right across the cavy fancy, from solid self colours and agouti ticking to tortoiseshell and white or tri-colour patterns. Texture is what matters most: it has to be straight and silky, never curly or coarse. Curl or a harsh feel to the coat points to another breed, the Texel. Since the hair never stops growing, the length on any given animal simply reflects its age and how well it has been kept.

Peruvians have a name as one of the calmer cavy breeds, which is just as well given how much handling the coat demands. They are friendly and gentle, and most settle quickly into a routine of being picked up, brushed, and groomed. This easy-going nature is a large part of why the breed does well in the show ring, where animals must put up with handling by judges.

With people the breed is sociable and tends to know its owners, often calling out when it hears the feed bowl. Gentle older children can make good companions for a Peruvian under supervision, though younger children need to be shown how to handle any guinea pig with care. The long coat means the breed is not suited to rough handling.

Guinea pigs are herd animals through and through. A Peruvian kept on its own is prone to stress and boredom, so the species needs to live in pairs or small groups. Same-sex pairs, or a neutered boar with sows, are common set-ups. Introductions should be taken slowly, but the breed's calm nature generally helps it settle in with other guinea pigs without much bother.

Coat care is the biggest difference between a Peruvian and a short-haired cavy. The hair grows without stopping and tangles easily, so it needs brushing often and must be kept clean around the rear end. Pet keepers commonly clip the coat short for hygiene and comfort, while show keepers maintain full length using wraps to protect the hair.

Grooming

• Brush the coat daily with a soft brush or a wide-tooth comb to stop mats forming.
• Trim hair around the rear and feet so it stays clean and free of droppings.
• Spot-clean soiled patches; bathe only when needed, with a small-animal shampoo, and dry the coat thoroughly afterwards.
• For show animals, section the coat and use wraps to keep the length tidy and stop it breaking.
• Check and trim nails every few weeks.

Exercise

• Give daily time in a safe, enclosed floor area or run for movement and foraging.
• Keep the cage free of clutter so the long coat does not snag on hides or toys.
• Offer tunnels and things to forage through rather than wheels or balls, which are not safe for guinea pigs.

Environment

Keep guinea pigs indoors, or in a sheltered, predator-proof space, at a steady temperature of roughly 18 to 24 C, away from draughts and direct sun. Given Ireland's cool, often damp climate, the long coat leaves Peruvians especially sensitive to damp and to overheating alike, so bedding has to stay clean and dry. Solid-floor housing with soft bedding protects both the feet and the coat.

Like every guinea pig, the Peruvian is a strict herbivore with a hindgut built around a high-fibre diet. Unlimited grass hay, timothy or meadow hay for preference, should make up the bulk of the diet, and is needed both for digestion and to wear down teeth that never stop growing. Fresh water must be on hand at all times.

Guinea pigs cannot make their own vitamin C and must get it from food. A cavy-specific pellet fortified with stabilised vitamin C, along with fresh vegetables high in the vitamin, helps keep deficiency at bay.

Treats and supplements

Treat fresh vegetables high in vitamin C as everyday food rather than a treat: bell pepper, leafy greens, and a little broccoli are all good choices. Fruit, such as a small slice of apple or a few berries, should stay occasional only, given the sugar content. A varied vegetable selection plus fortified pellets is usually enough vitamin C on its own; vitamin drops added to water are not recommended, as they break down quickly and can put the animal off drinking altogether. Check with a vet before adding any supplement.

With good care a Peruvian will generally live 5 to 7 years. The breed is hardy on the whole, but its long coat raises the stakes on cleanliness: hair soiled around the rear can trap droppings and urine, which in warm weather can lead to fly strike, a serious condition where flies lay eggs in the coat. Daily checks and trimming keep this risk down.

Most health problems seen in Peruvians are the same ones found across guinea pigs generally.

Preventive care

• Feed unlimited hay and a vitamin C source to head off dental and scurvy problems.
• Groom and check the coat and skin daily, especially around the rear.
• Keep bedding clean and dry and housing well ventilated.
• Weigh weekly; steady weight loss is an early warning sign.
• Find a vet with small-mammal experience before problems crop up.

Guinea pigs need far more floor space than the average pet-shop cage allows, and the Peruvian is no exception. A solid floor with soft bedding protects both the feet and the long coat, which can drag and pick up dirt in a wire-floor or grubby enclosure. House at least two guinea pigs together, and scale the space up for every extra animal. Because the coat is prone to damp and heat damage, housing suits an indoor spot best, or otherwise a well-sheltered, well-ventilated one, given how changeable Irish weather can turn.

Setup checklist

• A large solid-floor cage, a C&C grid set-up, or a sheltered run.
• A deep layer of dust-free, absorbent bedding.
• A hay rack or pile kept clean and dry.
• A water bottle and a heavy food bowl.
• One hide per guinea pig, with an opening wide enough not to snag the coat.
• Daily spot-cleaning and a full clean each week.

Breeding guinea pigs carries real risk and is best left to experienced keepers. Sows reach sexual maturity at around 4 to 6 weeks and boars at about 8 to 9 weeks, so the sexes need separating early to head off unplanned litters. Timing matters most for sows: if a sow is bred for the first time after roughly 6 to 8 months of age, the pelvic joint may have already fused, which can make natural birth dangerous or impossible. Responsible breeders plan first litters with this in mind.

Gestation runs long for such a small rodent, around 59 to 72 days. Guinea pigs are precocial, so pups arrive fully furred, with their eyes open and teeth through, and can move about and nibble solid food within days. Litters tend to be small, with 2 to 4 pups typical.

The sow nurses the young, but pups start sampling hay and vegetables almost straight away and are usually weaned by about 3 weeks. With the Peruvian, pups are short-coated at birth, and the long adult coat comes in as they grow. Young destined for the show bench are assessed as the coat matures, and males need separating from their mother and sisters before they reach breeding age.