
Otterhound
The Otterhound is a boisterous, good-natured scenthound known for its shaggy coat, webbed feet, and love of water.
- Size
- Large
- Lifespan
- 10–13 years
- Origin
- England
- Temperament
- Good-natured
- Standard colors
- Black, White and Grey and 8 more
Characteristics
Coat and grooming
How the Otterhound coat is built, and what that means when you groom it.
- Coat layers
- Double coat
- Coat texture
- Wire
- Coat length
- Medium
- Shedding
- Low shedding
Grooming guidance
Caution: A Otterhound coat should be hand-stripped rather than clipped.
A wire coat is meant to be pulled out at the root once the hair is ready to release. Clippers cut it off part way instead, leaving the soft undercoat behind. The result is a coat that grows back limp and faded, and the weatherproof texture only returns after the hair is stripped out again.
Otterhound colors and patterns
What each club's breed standard says about every Otterhound color and pattern. Point at a ruling to see the club's own wording.
Breed standards describe the Otterhound in Black, White, Grey, Blue, Liver, Tan, Red, Lemon, Cream, Wheaten and Sandy. Standard patterns: Solid, Bicolour, Tricolour, Piebald, Parti-colour, Agouti, Grizzle and Tan point.
| Color or pattern | FCI | AKC | UKC | KC | KUSA |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black | Standard (“Black and tan”) | Standard (“Black”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Black and tan”) | Standard (“Black and tan”) |
| White | Standard (“White hounds”) | Standard (“White”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White hounds”) | Standard (“White Hounds”) |
| Grey | No ruling | Standard (“Gray”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Not recognised | No ruling |
| Blue | Standard (“blue”) | Standard (“Blue & Cream”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“blue”) | Standard (“blue”) |
| Liver | Standard (“occasional liver, tan and liver”) | Standard (“Liver & Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“occasional liver, tan and liver”) | Standard (“occasional liver, tan and liver”) |
| Tan | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) |
| Red | Standard (“red”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“red”) | Standard (“red”) |
| Lemon | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“Lemon”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“White Hounds may have slight lemon, blue, or badger pied markings”) |
| Cream | Standard (“black and cream”) | Standard (“Blue & Cream”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“black and cream”) | Standard (“black and cream”) |
| Wheaten | Standard (“wheaten”) | Standard (“Wheaten”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“wheaten”) | Standard (“wheaten”) |
| Sandy | Standard (“sandy”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“sandy”) | Standard (“sandy”) |
| Albino | No ruling | No ruling | Disqualifying (“Albinism”) | Not recognised | No ruling |
| Patterns | |||||
| Solid | Standard (“whole coloured”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Whole coloured”) | Standard (“whole-coloured”) |
| Bicolour | Standard (“tan and white”) | Standard (“Blue & Cream”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White & Black”) | Standard (“tan and white”) |
| Tricolour | Not recognised (“a white-bodied hound with black and tan patches distinctly separate”) | Standard (“White Black & Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Not recognised (“a white-bodied hound with distinctly separate black patches and tan patches”) | Not recognised (“a white-bodied Hound with black and tan patches distinctly separate”) |
| Piebald | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“White hounds may have slight lemon, blue or badger pied markings”) | Standard (“White Hounds may have slight lemon, blue, or badger pied markings”) |
| Parti-colour | No ruling | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Particolour”) | No ruling |
| Agouti | Standard (“badger pied markings”) | Standard (“Badger Markings”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“badger pied markings”) | Standard (“badger pied markings”) |
| Grizzle | Standard (“grizzle”) | Standard (“Grizzle Markings”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“grizzle”) | Standard (“grizzle”) |
| Tan point | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Black & Tan”) | Standard (“Any color or combination of colors is acceptable”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) | Standard (“Black and tan, blue and tan”) |
| Color or pattern | FCI | AKC | UKC | KC | KUSA |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dark brown | No ruling | Standard (“The eyes are dark”) | Standard (“The deeply set eyes are dark”) | No ruling | No ruling |
| Hazel | Standard (“a blue and tan hound may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“those with liver or slate pigment may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“Those with liver or slate pigment may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“a blue and tan hound may have hazel eyes”) | Standard (“a blue and tan Hound may have hazel eyes”) |
| Yellow | Fault (“Yellow eye undesirable”) | No ruling | No ruling | Fault (“Yellow eye undesirable”) | Fault (“Yellow eye undesirable”) |
| Color or pattern | FCI | AKC | UKC | KC | KUSA |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Black | No ruling | Standard (“black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound”) | Standard (“Dogs with black-pigmented eye rims and noses”) | No ruling | No ruling |
| Slate | No ruling | Standard (“black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound”) | Standard (“Those with liver or slate pigment”) | No ruling | No ruling |
| Liver | Standard (“a tan hound may have a brown nose”) | Standard (“black, liver, or slate, depending on the color of the hound”) | Standard (“Those with liver or slate pigment”) | Standard (“a tan hound may have a brown nose”) | Standard (“a tan Hound may have a brown nose”) |
| Patterns | |||||
| Butterfly nose | Standard (“A slight butterfly nose permissible”) | No ruling | No ruling | Standard (“A slight butterfly nose permissible”) | Standard (“A slight butterfly nose permissible”) |
What the rulings mean
- Standard
- Described by the club's breed standard.
- Fault
- Named by the club's breed standard as a fault: the animal can be shown but is penalised.
- Disqualifying
- The club's breed standard disqualifies an animal of this colour or pattern.
- Not recognised
- The club does not accept this colour or pattern for the breed.
Color changes
How a Otterhound's colors can change over its life.
Blackchanges toRust
Coat · With body condition · can change back
Blackchanges toGrey
Coat · Progressive
Blackchanges toBrown
Coat · In the sun · can change back
Whitechanges toRoan
Coat · With age · from 2 weeks
Tan pointchanges toSaddle
Coat · With age · from 6 to 156 weeks
Blackchanges toSnow nose
Nose · With the season · can change back
Blackchanges toPink
Nose · With the season · can change back
Sources
Each ruling comes from the club's published breed standard or color list.
Meet some of our Otterhound
A few of the Otterhound profiles members have added to United Pet Club.
About the Otterhound
The Otterhound is a big, shaggy-coated scenthound with webbed feet, built in England to hunt otters in cold water, and rare enough that few Irish owners will ever meet one in the flesh.
The Otterhound is a large scenthound that started out in England, built for tracking otters up and down rivers and streams. Two features come from that job: a rough, water-shedding double coat and broad, webbed feet that make the dog a powerful swimmer.
Grown dogs are tall and heavily built. Males often stand around 27 inches at the shoulder and carry 80 to 115 pounds. The breed pairs real stamina with a deep, carrying voice and one of the keenest noses of any hound, able to hold a scent across water just as well as on dry land.
The temperament is friendly and easy in company. The Otterhound gets on well with people and other dogs, though it keeps the independent streak typical of scenthounds, so it will not always drop what it is doing the first time it is called. It is also one of the rarest dog breeds anywhere, and Ireland sees only a handful in any given year.
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| Origin | England |
| Size | Large (80 to 115 lb) |
| Lifespan | 10 to 13 years |
| Group / role | Hound; water-working scenthound |
| Good with | Families, children, other dogs; wants supervision around small pets |
Who it suits
The Otterhound fits an active household with room to roam and time for exercise every day. It suits owners who like getting out for a walk regardless of the weather, or who fancy a swim, and who can handle a dog that is strong-willed and free with its voice. The shaggy coat wants regular grooming, and that deep bay carries well beyond the garden wall, so a small flat in the city centre is not the right setting, nor is a home looking for a dog that does as it is told the first time.
History and origin
Medieval English packs bred the Otterhound to hunt otters that competed with people for fish, and it survives today as one of the rarest native British breeds, seldom seen even at Irish shows.
The Otterhound took shape in England, where hunting packs worked otters along the rivers. Otters and people were after the same fish, and organised otter hunting with hounds goes back to at least medieval times, with mentions during the reigns of several English monarchs. The pursuit carried on in some fashion for centuries after that.
The modern Otterhound is believed to come from a mix of rough-coated hounds and other working dogs, a blend that gave it the dense coat, big frame and sharp nose needed for wet ground and cold rivers. Nobody can say for certain which crosses went into it, but the breed was plainly bred for swimming and for long days working in a pack.
Otter hunting fell away through the twentieth century as otter numbers dropped. Once the United Kingdom gave the otter legal protection in the late 1970s, hunting stopped in England and Wales, and the breed lost the job it was built for. Packs were broken up or turned to other work, and the number of dogs bred fell sharply.
These days the Otterhound is kept mostly as a companion and is recognised by the major kennel clubs, the Irish Kennel Club among them for anyone here looking to register or show one. It stays very rare, with only a small litter count each year worldwide, and conservation breeding keeps the surviving lines going.
Appearance
The Otterhound is a big, rough-coated hound with a broad head, large webbed feet and a sturdy build that looks every bit as tough as its old job demanded.
The Otterhound is a big, sturdy dog with a long, rough top coat over an oily undercoat that sheds water well. The head is large and fairly narrow, with a long muzzle and low-set ears that fold and are covered in hair. The eyes sit deep, and the whole expression is open and good-natured.
The body runs a touch longer than it is tall, with a deep chest, a strong back and a tail carried up when the dog is on the move. The feet are large, broad and webbed, built for the water.
| Trait | Standard |
|---|---|
| Height | Males about 27 in; females about 24 in at the shoulder |
| Weight | 80 to 115 lb |
| Coat | Rough, dense double coat; oily water-resistant undercoat |
| Colours | Any recognised hound colour; often grizzle, wheaten, black and tan, and liver shades |
| Eyes | Deep-set, dark, with an open expression |
Coat and colours
The coat is what people notice first. It is hard and shaggy, usually 2 to 6 inches long over the body, softer on the head and lower legs. The undercoat carries a slight oiliness that sheds water and keeps the dog warm swimming in a cold river or lake, no small thing given how soft and wet Irish weather can turn. A wide range of colours is accepted: grizzle and wheaten are the most common, alongside black and tan, blue and cream, and various liver and tan mixes. Regular grooming is needed to stop the coat matting, especially around the ears and feet.
Temperament
The Otterhound is friendly, good-humoured and sociable, but independent and vocal, with a strong pull towards any scent it picks up.
The Otterhound is even-tempered and affectionate, and it generally likes company. It is friendly with strangers and rarely shows aggression, so it makes an easygoing house dog rather than a watchdog. Bred to work in packs, it usually gets along fine with other dogs.
With children the breed tends to be patient and tolerant, though its size and exuberance mean playtime with small children needs watching. Around cats and smaller pets, some caution is called for, since the strong hunting and scenting drive can set off a chase.
Independence runs deep in this breed. The Otterhound thinks for itself and will happily ignore a command once an interesting scent crosses its path. It is also a notably vocal dog, with a deep bay that carries a long way and gets used freely. Owners should expect a dog that is sociable and game, but not naturally obedient.
| Trait | Rating |
|---|---|
| Affection | 4 |
| Energy | 4 |
| Trainability | 2 |
| Vocalness | 5 |
| Shedding | 3 |
Care
The Otterhound needs regular coat care, plenty of daily exercise, ideally with a swim thrown in, and a garden with a secure, solid fence.
The Otterhound is high maintenance on both fronts, coat and exercise. It suits owners who can put in time outdoors and keep up with regular grooming sessions.
Grooming
- Brush the rough coat once or twice a week to stop matting and clear out debris
- Give extra attention to the long-haired ears, beard and feet, where dirt and damp collect
- Check and clean the folded ears often to cut the risk of infection
- Bathe now and then, but not too often, since over-washing strips the oils that protect the undercoat
- Trim nails as needed and check the webbed feet after time spent outdoors
Exercise
- Aim for at least 60 to 90 minutes of activity a day
- Let the dog swim when you can, since it suits the build and the instincts
- Use long walks and scent games to work that strong nose
- Keep the dog on a lead or inside a fenced area, because a scent trail can override any recall
Environment
The Otterhound does best in a house with a securely fenced garden rather than a flat. The fence wants to be high and solid, given the size, energy and water skills involved. That deep, frequent bay can bother neighbours living close by, so a rural or semi-rural spot suits the breed far better than a terraced street.
Nutrition
The Otterhound needs a complete large-breed diet fed in set portions, matched to its size and activity, to keep excess weight off.
As a big, active hound, the Otterhound needs a complete and balanced diet made for large dogs. Feed a measured amount split over two meals a day rather than leaving food down all the time, which helps keep weight steady and energy even. Adjust the amount for the individual dog's age, activity and body condition, and keep fresh water down at all times.
| Life stage | Amount per day | Meals |
|---|---|---|
| Puppy (2 to 6 months) | 3 to 5 cups, large-breed puppy food | 3 to 4 |
| Junior (6 to 18 months) | 4 to 6 cups | 2 to 3 |
| Adult | 3.5 to 5 cups | 2 |
| Senior / less active | 3 to 4 cups | 2 |
Treats and supplements
Keep treats to around 10 percent of daily calories, since extra weight puts real strain on a large dog's joints. Being deep-chested, the Otterhound carries some risk of bloat, so avoid hard exercise straight before or after meals. Talk to a vet before adding any joint or omega-3 supplement.
Health
The Otterhound is generally hardy and lives 10 to 13 years, but it can be prone to hip dysplasia, bloat and an inherited bleeding disorder.
The Otterhound is on the whole a robust working breed, with a typical lifespan of 10 to 13 years. Because the population worldwide is so small, responsible breeders screen carefully to keep inherited problems in check. Being a large, deep-chested dog, it carries the size-related risks common to big breeds, and anyone considering a puppy should ask the breeder for health-screening results on both parents.
| Condition | Signs | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Hip dysplasia | Stiffness, limping, reluctance to rise | Screen breeding stock; keep weight controlled |
| Elbow dysplasia | Foreleg lameness, especially when young | Common in large breeds |
| Gastric dilatation-volvulus (bloat) | Swollen abdomen, retching, distress | Emergency; deep-chested dogs are at risk |
| Glanzmann thrombasthenia | Excessive bleeding, easy bruising | Inherited platelet disorder seen in the breed; DNA testing available |
| Ear infections | Head shaking, odour, scratching | Linked to long folded ears and water exposure |
Preventive care
- Keep core vaccinations and parasite prevention up to date
- Keep weight under control to protect the hips and elbows
- Feed measured meals and let the dog rest after eating to lower the risk of bloat
- Clean and dry the ears often, especially after a swim
- Ask the breeder about DNA testing for the inherited bleeding disorder
- Book a vet check every year, more often once the dog reaches its senior years
Training
The Otterhound is bright but independent, so training calls for patience, consistency and reward-based methods rather than endless repetition.
The Otterhound is clever but headstrong, and that combination makes training slower going than with a breed that is eager to please. It was bred to work at a distance and make its own calls, so it will weigh up whether a command is worth its while. Short, varied and motivating sessions work far better than long, repetitive drills. A dependable recall is hard to guarantee once the dog has locked on to a scent, so a secure area and a long line matter during training.
Basics
- Start socialising early, introducing the puppy to people, dogs and different settings
- Teach the dog's name and a reward marker, so it learns that cooperating pays off
- Build a solid recall on a long line in a low-distraction spot before moving on
- Practise loose-lead walking early, since a grown Otterhound is big and strong
- Bring in scent and search games to put that natural drive to work for a reward
Breeding
The Otterhound is one of the rarest breeds around, so breeding is closely managed to protect genetic diversity and screen out inherited disease.
Otterhound breeding is managed closely, because the breed's numbers are critically low. With such a small global population and a tight gene pool, breeders coordinate matings to hold on to genetic diversity and avoid concentrating inherited conditions. Bitches reach physical maturity at around 18 to 24 months, and responsible breeders wait until then before a first litter.
Gestation runs about 63 days, as with most dogs. Litters tend to be moderate to large for the breed, and the puppies are slow to mature, in body and mind alike, often not fully grown until two or three years old. Rearing the litter calls for early socialising, careful feeding for steady large-breed growth, and screening of breeding stock for hip and elbow status along with the inherited bleeding disorder. Anyone after a puppy should expect a waiting list and should deal only with breeders who health-test their dogs.
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Sexual maturity | About 18 to 24 months (first breeding) |
| Gestation | Approximately 63 days |
| Average litter size | Moderate to large for the breed |
| Physical maturity | 2 to 3 years |
| Population status | Very rare; conservation breeding in place |
Registering your Otterhound in Ireland, chip and record both
Irish law wants every dog chipped and recorded; United Pet Club keeps your Otterhound's record free, current, and there for life.
How to register an Otterhound in Ireland
Get the profile sorted first: your Otterhound's name, his date of birth, a photo, and your phone number, saved in a couple of minutes. The record is free for the whole of his life, and the chip number slots in whenever the vet has done his part. Dog registration is where it starts.
Lodge your Otterhound's fifteen digit number with United Pet Club and the chip finally earns its keep: free registration for life, every brand accepted, and a record the ISPCA or any warden can turn into a phone call. Microchip registration takes minutes, and the free account covers the profile while you're at it.
How do I register my Otterhound in Ireland?
Set yourself up with a free United Pet Club account, key in your Otterhound's details and a photo, and save. The profile holds for the whole of his life without charge, and the chip number can be lodged whenever you have it.
How do I register my Otterhound's microchip?
Lodge the fifteen digit chip number in your free account along with your address and phone number. The lifetime plan covers the registration and every update after it, free, whatever brand the vet used.
Is microchipping an Otterhound required in Ireland?
It is. The 2015 Regulations require every dog to be chipped and registered, pup or rescue alike. Keeping the record current is the part that falls to you, and United Pet Club makes that part free.
What does it cost to register an Otterhound in Ireland?
Not a penny. Profile, chip record, and every amendment are covered for life, with no renewal ever.
Frequently asked questions
Common questions Irish owners ask about the Otterhound's size, temperament, care, lifespan, suitability for families and how hard it is to find a puppy.
How big does an Otterhound get?
It is a large breed. Males stand about 27 inches at the shoulder and females about 24 inches, with weight running from 80 to 115 pounds.
What is the Otterhound's temperament like?
Friendly, good-humoured and sociable with people and other dogs, but independent and very vocal, with a strong pull towards any scent it picks up.
Is the Otterhound hard work to keep?
Fairly demanding, yes. The shaggy coat needs grooming once or twice a week, the dog wants 60 to 90 minutes of exercise a day, and the loud bay along with the independent streak take some patience to manage.
How long do Otterhounds live?
The typical lifespan runs from 10 to 13 years.
Is the Otterhound good with children?
Yes. It is usually patient and affectionate with children, though its size and exuberance mean play with small children should be watched, and it needs care around cats and small pets.
Are Otterhounds easy to find in Ireland?
No. The Otterhound is one of the rarest dog breeds in the world, with only a small number of puppies registered each year, so expect a long waiting list from breeders who health-test their dogs, whether at home or further afield.
Do Otterhounds like the water?
Yes. They were bred to hunt otters and have a water-resistant coat and webbed feet that make them strong, enthusiastic swimmers, well suited to Ireland's rivers and lakes.
From the community
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